Sparkling Wine and Champagne

Multi-Vintage Champagne

Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée’, Aÿ $130 btl
A classic; rich and stylish, with authoritative mousse and assertive petillance.  Its late-harvest peachiness balances nicely against flavors of vanilla liqueur, opulent gala apples, and hazelnut – the finish is particularly fine.

José Dhondt, Blanc de Blancs, Oger***  $85
Definitely one of the most dynamic wines I’ve had from the Côte de Blancs, this begins with an opulent rush and drive on the palate, all sweet orange and pomegranate, and then swiftly settles down into an even, elegant, quite sophisticated dry finish. Don’t miss.

Fluteau, Blanc de Noirs, Gye-sur-Seine*** $65 btl
From 100% Pinot Noir, this shows lots of bright wild strawberry and orange peel on the nose, while the palate shows a very restrained pétillance – this is very soft on the whole – leading to flavors of fresh-baked croissant and charming bing cherry.

Godmé Père et Fils ‘Extra Brut’, Grand Cru Verzenay***     $125 btl
A family-grown, biodynamic marvel that spends 5  years on the lees, this is quite dry, very savory, exotic, and really unforgettable; under a gentle pétillance, flavors of sage and daikon and tonic and wasabi combine with high-toned granny smith apple.  Superb.

Henriot ‘Souverain’, Reims $85 btl
A clean and powerful blend of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir, showing intense white peach, a note of meringue, and ripe nectarine flavors in a lithe, muscular body of very tight bubbles and elegant mousse.

Laurent Perrier ‘Ultra Brut, Nature’, Tours-sur-Marne   $125
L-P’s premier bottling, in my opinion: very dry (bottled with no dosage), w/intense sparkle, oyster brine, ginger, tonic, soy, & more.

Pierre Peters, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru le Mesnil-sur-Oger***    $100 btl
A personal favorite luxury cuvée: extremely fragrant, with powerful, rich vanilla, keen, edgy citrus, and an elegant envelope of orchard fruit.

Pol Roger ‘Réserve’, Epernay   $120 btl
A classically rich and balanced style, famous for its stimulating, fine ribbon of bubbles, toasted brioche and ripe golden raisin.

Sparkling Rosé

Paul Bara NV Brut Rosé, Grand Cru Bouzy, Champagne, France*** $125 btl
A powerful, luxury rosé bottling: the mousse is silky, the ribbon of bubbles is firm, and the amazing finish lasts all night long.

Ferrari NV Brut Rosé, Trento, Italy*** $70 btl
From my new favorite sparklng wine estate in Italy, this supremely elegant blend of 60 Pinot Noir and 40 Chardonnay, aged 3 years on the lees, somehow balances seductive florals and pungently ripe fruit in a remarkably sophisticated total texture.

Camille Savès NV Brut Rosé, Grand Cru Bouzy, Champagne, France*** $130  btl
Complex and sophisticated, this shows a light salmon-pink color, aromas of fresh-baked bread, and a tense, agile palate that combines flavors of ripe persimmon, keen plum, and a hint of smoke. Easy to love, this is a connoisseur’s delight!

Vilmart & Cie NV ‘Cuvée Rubis’ Brut, Premier Cru Rilly la Montagne, Champagne, France***   $140 btl
The classiest Rosé I’ve ever had, this stimulates and soothes the palate like a hot tub does your naked body: flavors of sun-dried tomato combine with fresh pomegranate seeds, white chocolate, fresh raspberry, and much much more.

Vintage and Tête-de-Cuvée Champagne

Chartogne-Taillet 2002 ‘Cuvée Fiacre’, Merfy***    $125 btl
This blend of first-press Pinot and Chardonnay is the best tête-de-cuvée I’ve ever tasted from my favorite winemaking couple in Champagne, Elisabeth Taillet and Phillipe Chartogne.  They exude an aristocratic charm and sense of bonhomie which somehow, osmotically, comes through in their wines.  The pitch-perfect ripeness of this 2002 expresses itself in tendencies: nectarine tending to cherry, soft saffron tending to cinnamon, linden leaf tending to spearmint; while the whole finishes with a succulent creamy tone.

Gaston Chiquet 2000 Brut, Dizy***    $110 btl
A personal favorite handcrafted Champagne; luscious and elegant, with juicy, lightly spiced bosc pear, a powerful mousse, shades of almond and strawberry/vanilla cream, all draped around a firm acidity and chalky undertones.  A marvel.

Krug NV ‘Grande Cuvée’, Reims $200 btl
A powerhouse of a Champagne – this wine is incredibly full-bodied and expansive on the palate, with intensely concentrated ripe    fruit flavors and forward notes of toast, vanilla, and spice, the result of fermentation in small oak barrels.

Marguet 2002 Brut, Grand Cru Ambonnay***    $90 btl
Outstanding balance for an ’02; it strikes the perfect margin b/w generosity and restraint, w/sweet cream & honeycrisp apple

Pierre Moncuit 1995 Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru le Mesnil sur Oger***   $140 btl
An extremely refined style, showing amazing acidity, salinity, and chalk; dried apricot, chestnut, and vanilla come to the fore

Salon 1985 Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil $500 btl
After 10 years on the lees, and over 10 years in bottle, this masterpiece shows the type of muscularity and grace that Michelangelo imagined; aromas of golden raisin, white truffle, lemon and quinine lead to a very fine palate of truly remarkable length.

Other Sparkling Wines

Adami NV Brut ‘Bosco di Gica’ Prosecco, Valdobbiadene, Italy***    $40 btl
A very dry, refreshing, and complex style from one of the top 3 Prosecco houses, this is the ideal beginning to your night…

Domaine Berthet-Bondet NV Cremant du Jura, France*** $50 btl
A plush, full-bodied style of Jura Cremant, showing a rich mousse, tropical fruit, and flavors of vanilla, juicy nectarine, and more.

Albert Boxler 2004 ‘Extra Brut’ Cremant d’Alsace, France*** $65 btl
Very overt, dry, powerful, biodynamic Cremant – a personal favorite from Alsace.  The sparkle here is in a tight ribbon, and very assertive, while the flavors on the palate – underlined by rich chalk and limestone – are heady and palate-coating: chestnut, dried papaya, and more.

Bründlmayer 2007 Brut, Kamptal, Austria***    $70
The very best sparkling wine in Central Europe; Willi B. handcrafts this in tiny amounts – the result is near perfection

Foreau NV Brut, Sparkling Vouvray, France*** $48 btl
Stunningly pure and refined, this gets into your bones with fine bubbles, clean flavors of quinine, cinnamon, apricot, and more.

Gruet NV Blanc de Noirs, Albuquerque, New Mexico $35 btl
Nothing shy here: this is a classic US sparkling wine, beloved for its bold raspberry flavors and shadings of cream and brioche.  Juicier than most, with a fairly high degree of petillance, a zesty mousse, and a mouthfilling finish.

L. Mawby NV ‘Cremant’ Brut, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan***   $40 btl
Single-vineyard, hand-picked, small-production, 100% Vignoles (!) which spends its first fermentation in small oak barrels, and undergoes its second in the Champagne method.  Low yeast, light toast, fresh pears, ripe kiwis and an exciting mousse combine beautifully.

Château d’Orschwihr NV Brut, Cremant d’Alsace, France*** $40 btl
Lean and charming Alsatian sparkling, with bright citrus fruits, racy acidity, and cool flavors of kiwi and dried apricot on the finish.

L’Origan NV Cava Brut ‘Nature’, Penedes, Spain $85  btl
A luxury Cava, the Krug of its zone, this is rich and toasty and powerful, showing roasted vanilla bean and white chocolate flavors, cut with more refreshing qualities of lime, tonic-water, and papaya – the bubbles are settled and soft.

Quartz Reef 2008 Brut, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand*** $55 btl
I’m convinced that Austrian-born Rudi Bauer at Quartz Reef is making New Zealand’s finest sparkling wine today. Aged over 24 mos. on the lees, his ’08 blend of 76% Pinot Noir and 24% Chardonnay has incredible mousse, persistent sparkle, and a flavor profile with a uniquely ‘heathery’ tone.

Max Ferd. Richter 2002 ‘Mülheimer Sonnenlay’ Riesling Brut Sekt, Mosel, Germany***    $60 btl
My favorite sparkling wine in Germany, this is only made in special years from a single vineyard of friable grey slate by our good friend Dirk Richter, fermented first in huge neutral oak casks, then again in bottle, this spends over 2 years on the fine lees, and is very carefully hand-riddled to preserve its inherent complexity.  A real work of love, showing stonefruit, citrus, and a slow, easy ride along the palate.

[For the sparkling wines above, *** indicates a grower/récoltant house]

 

New Arrivals and Rarities

White

2003 Albert Boxler, Muscat Grand Cru ‘Brand’, Niedermorschwihr, Alsace, France $90
This masterpiece – perhaps the world’s prime expression of Muscat – has settled into a plush, elegant wonder; a nose of pear, nectarine, and quince paste leads to a texturally intriguing palate of roasted cashew, apricot, and quinine. I can’t overstate the rarity of this bottling – it comes from a micro-parcel of a few rows in the famous Brand cru, and is only made in very special years (like the hot ’03 vintage) – outside of a shop in NJ, Webster’s is the ONLY place to find this. We visited Boxler’s estate in May 2010, and, with no bottles left, they offered to buy it back from us. Don’t miss.

2008 Keller ‘von der Fels’ Riesling, Rheinhessen, Germany   $70
This astonishing dry Riesling is one of my favorites from the 2008 vintage; it’s electrically vivid and very agile on the palate, with a kaleidescopic expression of fruit & acidity, and a focused minerality. Sourced from a collection of younger vines within the great crus Kirschspiel, Hubacker and Morstein, it accordingly shows a charming exuberance of melon and peach alongside the aforementioned acidity and drive. We only received 6 bottles – enjoy this soon!

2003 Castello di Lispida ‘Amphora’ Tokai, Veneto, Italy    $140
One of the world’s white wine treasures, this is harvested from a tiny 1 1/2-acre plot at almost no yield, farmed by the radically non-interventionist principles of Japanese philosopher Masanobu Fukuoka.  It ferments and ages in underground stone amphoras, untouched, for 14 months, and is then poured directly into the bottle without fining or filtration.   Its grace, clean line and absolute purity bring Raphael to mind.   2,000 bottles made.

2009 Caves du Vieux Moulin ‘Amandolyre’ Fendant, Grand Cru ‘Vetroz’, Valais, Switzerland $60
In the Valais, Chasselas goes by the name Fendant; this bottling by Romain Papilloud at Vieux Moulin may be the best expression of this varietal we’ve had. From a tiny parcel of terrassed, steep, high-altitude vines, this somehow comes across dry and thirst-slaking (with flavors of pink grapefruit and watermelon), earthy and herbal (oregano and thyme), and perfumed (rosewater and meringue), all at the same time… the opportunity to offer this wine in Chicago is a rare treat!

NV Vevi ‘Golden/1954’, Verdejo/Viura, Rueda, Spain [375 mL]    $50
A very traditional style of Verdejo, this amazing wine opens a window to the past, and will change your ideas of how Spanish wines should (and could) be tasted.  Left to ferment at its own pace for two years under a veil of yeast, like the wines of Jerez, this is then entered into a solera system, begun ~ 1954, where it gains in complexity and color by mixing with other vintages. Apparently, back in the day, nearly all Rueda whites were made this way; on the palate, it comes off like a very drinkable, dry, lighter-bodied Palo Cortado, with flavors of macadamia nut, rice milk, jasmine, and kiwi.  (This is terrific as a cheese pair.)

Red

2009 Frank Cornelissen ‘Contadino 7’, Mt. Etna, Sicily   $65
Belgian-born, working his own recently acquired estate on the forbidding slopes of Mt. Etna, Frank Cornelissen is one of the most original (and controversial) winemakers in the world today.  A restless seeker of purity – not perfection -  he’s experimented with a multitude of winemaking styles, seeking to find the most natural wine he can.  This wine, a blend, as he says, of “various local grapes, white and red”, was fermented with its own yeast, and bottled without fining, filtration, or sulfur – it will have a bit of sediment in the bottle, but don’t let that put you off, this begs for a taste – aromas of lambic/gueuze introduce an extremely fascinating palate of energetic acidity and lots of flavorful surprises.

2009 Fronton de Oro, Tintilla/Listan Negro, Gran Canaria, Canary Islands, Spain $34
A rare gem! From a tiny family estate which farms 6 hectares in a steep, high-altitude mountain range (known locally as ‘El Fronton’) on the Canaries’ 2nd largest island, this elegant, savory wine is a staff favorite, filled with exotic flavors of raspberry tea, jasmine, pomegranate, rosehip, and more.

2007 Ojai, Syrah, Santa Barbara County, California $55
Adam Tolmach has been crafting outstanding Rhône style wines at Ojai since 1983; he considers this 2007 bottling of his Santa Barbara Syrah to be totally overperforming for the price right now, and we agree! Reminiscent, in ways, of a fine Cornas, this shows heady, peppery spice, an earthy, rich midpalate, and a heartwarming finish.

2008 Panevino ‘Tankadeddu’, Isola dei Nuraghi, Island of Sardegna, Italy    $95
“My two greatest influences are Bob Dylan and Jesus” – this claim of Panevino’s winemaker, Gianfranco Manca, may help to explain his wines’ style: rebellious, unpredictable, and outspoken.  This blend of old and young vine Cannonau, Monica, and Carignano di Sulcis, from two single sites (‘Tanka’ and ‘Deddu’) underlain by compact schist, is one of the most arresting red wines we’ve tasted all year.  Fermented with natural yeast, not fined or filtered, bottled with very minimal sulphur addition, it shows unparalleled textural tension and clarity of fruit, while the long finish is enlivened by such strong minerality you can’t help but salivate.

 

Reserve Whites

France: Côte de Beaune and Chablis

2009 Domaine Billaud-Simon, Chablis    $48
A top-tier Chablis, more forward and less ‘nervous’ than others, showing surprising cinnamon/apple spice and a rich body

2005 Coche-Bizouard, Meursault ‘Les Chevalières’    $90
A very clean, delectable style of Meursault from a favorite higher-altitude site – flavors of lemon and ripe comice pear

2005 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis    $70
There’s no better expression of village-level Chablis than this – its layered intensity is conveyed with consummate grace

2007 Benoit Ente, Bourgogne Blanc   $65
A fabulous wine from a terrific year, this develops beautifully in the glass (or decanter) – very harmonious and satisfying

2002 Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru ‘Les Chalumaux’     $95
Succulent gala apple flavors and a soft, pillowey minerality are underscored by shades of citronella, lavender, and spice

2008 Benjamin Leroux, Auxey-Duresses $75
Full-bodied and extremely evocative, this is plush and super-polished, with spicy yellow apple, acacia honey, and more

2003 Leroy, Beaune    $105
A top ‘03 from this superlative estate – it has the girth of Pavarotti and the speed of a TGV-train; muscular & nervy

1998 Marc Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru ‘En Virondot’    $100
A huge wine with big flavors of ripe apple, smoke, toast, honey, nuts, vanilla bean, and more – amazingly complex

2007 Paul Pernot, Puligny-Montrachet    $100
For many years, Paul’s wines have been the benchmark for Puligny’s powerful side; this shows terrific impact and acidity

2008 Gilbert Picq et ses fils, Chablis    $50
A taut, densely knit Chablis that grabs the palate and won’t let go, with flavors of stonefruit, kiwi seed, and smoky spice

France: Mâcon, Côte Chalonnaise

2004 Robert Denogent ‘La Croix’ Pouilly-Fuissé, Vieilles Vignes     $60
Clean as a whistle, this luxury bottling shows white chalk and crisp red pear alongside lemon zest and long acidity

2007 Vincent Dureuil-Janthial, Rully Premier Cru ‘Le Meix Cadot’    $65
One of the fullest-bodied, most herbal Rullys I’ve ever had: lavender, fennel, tapioca, vanilla extract, and much more.

2002 Colette Ferret ‘Le Tournant de Pouilly’, Pouilly-Fuissé $115
This is a rare work of living history from an amazing vintage – since M.Ferret’s passing, we won’t see Fuissés of this caliber again – don’t miss a chance to try this – dry honeycomb and smoke and turmeric and guava and mint and much more

2007 Domaine de la Folie, Rully    $55
This sinuous, wondrous Chalonnaise Chardonnay reminds one of many other wines at once – it has the perfume and salty grip of a top manzanilla, the tart grapefruit and rich taffee of a Tocai, and a signature honey-crisp apple & pecan tone

2007 Domaines Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé     $65
A newer wine from this storied biodynamic domaine that carries incredible complexity, salinity, body, & torque – don’t miss

France: Alsace

2006 Paul Blanck, Gewurztraminer ‘Altenbourg’, Kientzheim $75
Incredibly suave, succulent palate feel and perfectly integrated sweetness – one of the best Gewurztraminers of the vintage

2007 Binner ‘Saveurs’, Ammerschwihr $35
This dry blend of Alsatian specialties (Riesling, PBlanc, etc) is the best of its kind; hazy in the glass, heaven on the palate

2008 Albert Boxler, Riesling Grand Cru ‘Sommerberg’, Niedermorschwihr   $95
Wow – the intense acidity here is unforgettable! From a steep, Mosel-like hill, this is one of the best single wines in all of Alsace – ripe grapefruit, salty papaya, a brush of tart green apple, and a ghostly smokiness lead to a long finish

2002 Marcel Deiss, Grand Cru ‘Altenberg de Bergheim’, Bergheim   $155
“It’s not a wine, it’s a dream.” (J-M. Deiss) This creation fulfills the spirit of the earth.  One of the best wines you’ll ever have.

2002 Marcel Deiss, Premier Cru ‘Burg’, Bergheim   $84
“Sumptuous, concentrated. . w/the particular spices of Keuper marl: cardamom, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg.” (J-M. Deiss)

2004 Rolly Gassmann, Gewurztraminer ‘Oberer Weingarten de Rorschwihr’, Rorschwihr  $95
Extremely complex, savory, and floral; not as sweet or spicy as others: yellow roses, balsamic/almost soy, incredible acidity

2005 Meyer-Fonné, Riesling Grand Cru ‘Wineck Schlossberg’, Katzenthal  $55
It’s a joy to share a top-notch Grand Cru Riesling at this price – lavender, lychee, cut hay, and a hint of more tropical fruit

2009 Martin Schaetzel, Gewurztraminer ‘Cuvée Reserve’, Ammerschwihr $35
A delicious, classic Gewurz, showing lemon zest, spicy mustard powder, and a rush of bright acid on the pinpoint finish

2002 Trimbach, Riesling ‘Cuvée Frederic Emilé’, Ribeauvillé    $75
This elegant Riesling defines its style for Alsace – lean, very dry and crisp on the palate. A blend of Grand Crus Geisberg and Osterberg, it shows orange pith, nectarine, and young bosc pear, alongside a shade of smoky petrol

2007 Domaine Weinbach, Riesling ‘Cuvée Théo’, Kaysersberg    $70
Utterly unique, this Riesling combines a malty richness with cool, refreshing tones of spearmint and peach – don’t miss

2004 Domaine Weinbach, Pinot Gris ‘Altenbourg’, Kaysersberg   $120
One of the loveliest Pinot Gris I’ve encountered, this takes your breath away with an earthy trueness – starchy and tropical

1999 Zind Humbrecht, Riesling, Wintzenheim ‘Clos Hauserer’ , Turckheim  $75
Astonishingly complex and concentrated, this wine has ripe apples, honey, minerals, citrus, floral notes, and more

France: Loire Valley

2002 Michel Brégeon, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $55
Proof positive that great Muscadet is built to age, this 10-year old wonder sings with dry apricot, quinine, and quince

2007 François Cazin, Romorantin, Cour-Cheverny   $38
Join the hip Paris bistro scene by sharing a bottle of this intensely refreshing, thirst-slaking Romorantin – you’ll be glad!

2005 Foreau ‘Clos Naudin’, Vouvray Demi-Sec    $68
Wow – this is a deep, bass-driven Vouvray, with shiitake mushroom, overripe pear, dark peppercorn, and a smoky finish

2004 Domaine Guiberteau, Saumur    $46
This dry, powerful Chenin Blanc, biodynamically made, shows bosc pear, notes of blue cheese, pine nut, and a light spice

2009 Domaine de la Louvetrie, Muscadet, Sèvre et Maine sur Lie   $28
I adore this classic expression of Muscadet by Jo Landron – it’s extremely finessed, saline, dry, and memorably satisfying

2007 Damien Laureau ‘Le Bel Ouvrage’, Savennières $85
This (literally) took my breath away at a recent tasting; semi-dry on the whole, w/chestnut honey, cinnamon & wildflower

2006 Luneau-Papin ‘Clos des Allèes’, Vieilles Vignes, Muscadet, Sèvre et Maine sur Lie     $32
From a top Muscadet producer, this shows more fruit and a touch less mineral than some, w/ fresh melon & wild strawberry

2007 Alphonse Mellot, ‘La Moussière’, Sancerre    $65
This is premier estate in Sancerre, and one of the best in France.  Supremely palate-flattering:with bosc pear, papaya, more

1996 Alphonse Mellot ‘Cuvée Edmond’, Vieilles Vignes, Sancerre     $190
No kidding, man! – this biodynamic wonder is one of the best French whites of the last four decades, it’s just amazing

2007 Marc Ollivier ‘Granite de Clisson’, Muscadet [1.5L magnum] $120
One of our favorite Muscadets ever made (and one of Marc’s), this shows glorious, thirst-slaking minerality and drive

2003 Chateau Pierre-Bise ‘Les Rayelles’, Rochefort, Coteaux du Layon  [500 mL]    $48
Stunningly complex, 1/2 dry Chenin, with bracing kumquat, notes of nutmeg and violet, and mouthfilling minerality

2005 Château de la Roche-aux-Moines (Nicolas Joly) ‘Les Clos Sacrés’, Savennières   $70
From a great vintage, this is a very accessible wine from our friend Nicolas, all chamomile/raspberry tea and smoke

2003 Château de la Roche-aux-Moines (Nicolas Joly) ‘Coulée de Serrant’, Savennières    $155
One of the world’s legendary wines; its intensity will leave you breathless.  Its tightly knit textures require early decanting.

2008 Domaine Thomas-Labaille ‘Cuvée Buster’, Les Monts Damnés, Sancerre $60
An absolutely gorgeous Sancerre from a difficult year, this has a power, grip, and persistence that are unforgettable

2007 Domaine Vacheron, Sancerre    $60
Its speed along the palate, lingering presence, and silky textures make this superb biod Sancerre one of 2007’s very best

France: Other Regions

2009 Antoine Arena, Vermentino, Patrimonio, Corsica $70
An evocative, savory white – rather full-bodied – with subtle floral aromatics, juicy nectarine fruit, and a persistent finish

2009 Barrère ‘Clos de la Vierge’ Sec, Jurançon $38
Very dry, medium-bodied, this shows a lovely array of tropical fruits like pineapple and kiwi, and finishes with a cool smokiness

2004 Domaine Berthet-Bondet, Chardonnay ‘Tradition’, Côtes du Jura    $50
According to tradition, this is aged under a fine veil of yeast (aka flor); strong acidity, savory nuttiness, a note of marzipan

2008 Jean-Paul Brun ‘Terres Dorees’, Beaujolais Blanc    $30
This rare Chardonnay is the best Beaujolais Blanc I’ve ever had; ‘08 was a great year!  Lush yellow fruit and smokin’ acidity

2009 Domaine Faillenc ‘Pas des Louves’, Corbières     $35
A luscious, refreshing blend of Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne and Macabeo; honeysuckle, jasmine green tea and more

2009 Château Haut-Lavigne, Côtes de Duras $32
A great summertime wine, this eastern-BDX blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon wowed our staff with its grace and charm

2006 Charles Hours ‘Cuvée Marie’ Sec, Jurançon   $42
Gros Manseng and Petite Corbu, this is dry, smoky, and very intense, with chicory, anise, cream soda and mushroom

2004 Clos Ste. Magdaleine, Cassis     $44
This charming southern French classic was fairly powerful in 04; coconut, lavender, aloe, pineapple, and a touch of plantain

2007 Domaine de Marcoux, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc $75
This rarity from a storied biodynamic estate is sourced from 2 tiny plots; its rich, nutty creaminess is balanced by great acid

2007 Domaine de Montbourgeau ‘En Banode’, L’Etoile, Jura     $65
Only made in special years, this single-vineyard, flor-aged Savagnin/Chard is amazingly complex, with hazelnut and orange zest

2007 André and Michel Quénard, Jacquères, Chignin, Savoie     $32
A taut, lean, refreshing Jacquères – very mineral-driven – with a briskly aromatic nose, crisp citrus, and clean acidity

2005 Château Respide-Médeville, Graves, Bordeaux Blanc    $50
The best 2005 Bordeaux blanc you’ll taste: gorgeously ripe mango, shaded with ginger, malt, lanolin, and much, much more

Italian Whites

2009 Abbazia di Novacella, Kerner, Alto Adige $40
Kerner ravishes the palate like few other whites, showing white pepper, blackcurrant, wild strawberry, and salty minerality

2009 Argillae, Orvieto $30
This pitch-perfect Grechetto blend begins with powerful orchard fruits, and finishes with a tart, crisp, tangy, savory note

2009 Bisson, Bianchetta Genovese, Golfo del Tigullio, Liguria $45
It’s great to welcome back the new vintage of a favorite Ligurian white: zesty lime, celery soda, jasmine tea, and more

2008 Bruna ‘Le Russeghine’ Pigato, Liguria   $55
A supreme expression of the Ligurian varietal Pigato, this remarkable wine shows rich aloe, plantain, and shades of mint

2010 Cabanon, Riesling, Oltrepo Pavese $38
One of the finest dry Rieslings in Italy, this shows stimulating spearmint and fresh summer peach, w/a fringe of creaminess

2002 La Castellada ‘Bianco della Castellada’, Collio $130
A breathtaking, naturally made (zero sulfur/unfined/unfiltered) blend of SB, Chard, and PGrigio; absolutely unforgettable

2005 Les Crêtes, Petite Arvine, Valle d’Aosta     $60
A rather profound wine from the Alpine northwest, whose Grand Cru Chablis-body is cut with exotic flowers and spice.

2008 Marco Furlan, Ribolla Gialla, IGT Delle Venezie     $32
The most savory Italian white I’ve had in a long while: rosepetal aromas; nettle tea, soda bread, lemon zest and a saline finish

2008 Orsolani ‘La Rustià’, Erbaluce di Caluso     $38
Erbaluce is one of my favorite Italian varietals; this fresh ‘08 is showing chamomile, jasmine, white nectarine, and hawthorn

2009 Ermes Pavese, ‘Blanc de Morgex’ Prié Blanc, Valle d’Aosta    $55
An incredibly rare, tiny-production wine from the Alps; rich & spicy & so  satisfying: golden raisin, caraway, more

2010 Elio Perrone ‘Sourgal’  Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont     $30
From Italy’s finest Moscato maker, this is bottled young to be enjoyed fresh: it’s pearly and perfectly sweet & captivating

2007 Planeta, Chardonnay, Sicily   $70
Recognized as one of Italy’s very best Chardonnays, this powerful wine shows incredible ripeness and a long finish

2009 Sartarelli, Verdicchio del Castelli di Jesi, Marches $32
An ideal summer white, this is complex and quaffable, with grapefruit, nettle, and sweet cream – the acidity is clean and pure

2008 Suavia, Soave $26
A Garganega blend which we found to be so lively and vivid on the palate, so clean and thirst-slaking, we had to offer it here!

2007 Elena Walch, Gewurztraminer, Alto-Adige    $45
Spicy olive-rye bread and rich beeswax flavors set this otherwise intense & high-acid Gewurz apart – easily Italy’s best

Austrian Whites

2007 Schloss Gobelsburg ‘Urgestein’ Riesling, Kamptal     $45
Keen, edgy, assertive wet primary rock (‘urgestein’) aromas combine with a heady tropicality and feathery acidity

2007 Hiedler, Grüner Veltliner ‘Maximum’, Kamptal    $75
If Grüner was grown in Meursault, this wine would be the result. A top Grüner, full-bodied, with wondrous development

2001 Hirtzberger, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Honivogl, Spitz, Wachau   $89
This has a fiery white-pepper and high-acid heart that beats against a taut chest of intensely ripe orange & persimmon

2005 Weingut Lagler, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Steinborz, Wachau     $55
From a new favorite producer, this is a Grüner of Meursault proportions, with a huge, complex, spicy palate feel

1990 Leth, Roter Veltliner, Wagram $145
Beautifully aged, this is elegant and taut on the palate, with flavors of oyster brine, olive, lemon zest, and a hint of birch smoke

2006 Nikolaihof ‘Vom Stein’ Riesling Federspiel, Wachau   $50
Elegant, bold biodynamic Riesling, showing a great balance between petrol, grapefruit zest, malt, and toasted plantain

2003 FX Pichler, Riesling Smaragd, Oberhauser, Wachau    $75
This rich 03 from the legendary Franz Xavier has a sapphire purity and fire beneath its wide-open verbena and citrus

2006 Rudi Pichler, Roter Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau    $85
We love Roter Veltliner for its spicy, intense, exotic, high-acid torque, and few make it better than our friend Rudi

2001 Rudi Pichler, Riesling Smaragd, Achleiten, Wachau   $74
This Riesling is one of Wachau’s best.  White spice, cumin, loess, toast, nectarine, and citrus favors frolic at their ease

2005 Prager, Riesling Federspiel, Wachau    $48
05 was a benchmark vintage for Toni B. at Prager; this big wine shimmers on the palate with cool papaya and peppermint

2009 Heidi Schrock, Muscat, Neusiedlersee-Huggeland, Burgenland $45
Can you tell we love Heidi and her wines? This delectable Muscat is fresh and über-charming, with jasmine and anjou pear

2006 Heidi Schrock, Grauburgunder, Neusiedlersee-Huggeland, Burgenland    $40
This luscious Pinot Gris is as engaging to the palate as Heidi’s conversation – all bright peaches & cream w/a note of musk

German Whites

2007 Schlossgut Diel, Riesling Kabinett, Dorsheimer Burgberg, Nahe   $50
From a site of quartzite stone and a great year, this caresses the palate with gentle sweetness and refreshing acidity

2006 Dönnhoff, Riesling Spätlese, Norheimer Kirschheck, Nahe   $85
Surprising flavors of red raspberry sorbet and fresh bing cherry sing out in this elegantly structured, mineral-driven wine

2005 Dönnhoff, Riesling Spätlese, Oberhäuser Brücke, Nahe    $90
From a monopole of kaleidescopic soil complexity, this is rich & fairly sweet, with guava & kumquat: one of the world’s best

2008 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofsberg, Riesling Spätlese, Saar    $70
An erotic, sensuous Riesling whose sweetness and acid flit like butterflies on the palate before settling into graceful harmony

2007 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofsberg, Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, Saar    $65
A half-dry wine of taut acidity and crystalline purity, this is one of Germany’s very best; lemongrass, ginger, lime, and more

2002 Koehler-Ruprecht, Riesling Kabinett, Kallstadter Steinacker, Pfalz    $35
What a pleasure to offer this ’02 at this price!  This is super-taut, and only semi-sweet on the palate: lemon, chive, and more

2009 Johannes Leitz, Riesling Kabinett, Rüdesheimer Klosterlay, Rheingau   $40
Really electric on the palate, showing ripe pineapple, a brush of nettle, and sweet comice pear.  Terrific – thanks, Josey!

2009 Carl Loewen, Riesling Spätlese ‘Laurentiuslay’, Mosel   $45
Rich, full textures, generous sweetness, and a fine strong thread of minerality combine to make this a top 2009 Riesling

2009 Müller-Catoir, Sauvignon Blanc, Pfalz $55
Unusual, utterly captivating Sauvignon Blanc; clean crisp fruit and lime blossom is tempered by a malty, creamy texture

2004 Müller-Catoir, Scheurebe Spätlese, Haardter Mandelring, Pfalz     $74
Bold cassis, crushed fennel-seed, citronella & ore develop on a line of marvelous tension to a dry finish of memorable weight

2004 Müller-Catoir, Riesling Spätlese, Haardter Burgergarten, Pfalz     $62
Whole blocks of diverse qualities swing through the palate by turns; keen citrus, malty lambic, and sweet orange spice

2003 Müller-Catoir, Riesling Spätlese, Haardter Herrenletten, Pfalz      $89
Epic.  One of the top wines of the vintage.  This shimmers with unforgettable complexity: lithe and agile and powerful

2008 Pfeffingen, Gewürztraminer Spätlese, Pfalz     $55
Pfeffingen’s making the best Gewürz in Germany today – ringingly cheerful orchard fruits and finely distributed spice

1999 Balthasar Ress, Riesling Auslese, Rudesheimer Berg Rottland, Rheingau $70
From Ress’ best, steepest site, this impeccably aged Auslese really took our breath away with its power and semi-dry grace

2008 Reuscher-Haart, Riesling Spätlese #10, Piesporter Goldtropfchen, Mosel   $40
Handcrafted by great friends, this is one of my favorite wines of ’08; very suave on the palate, with integrated sweetness

1995 Max Ferd. Richter, Riesling Auslese, Graacher Domprobst, Mosel     $115
A rich, dark Auslese to sit and contemplate, showing dried papaya, vanilla malt, a note of petrol, and oily macadamia

2008 Schaefer-Fröhlich, Riesling Halbtrocken, Nahe $38
A half-dry Riesling of impeccable finesse, this is one of the food-friendliest whites in Chicago, w/intense, balanced acidity

2006 Willi Schaefer, Riesling Spätlese #12, Graacher Domprobst, Mosel     $60
The supreme balance between gentle sweetness and poised acidity here will elicit gasps of wonder: one of the marvels of ‘06

2004 Robert Weil, Riesling Spätlese, ‘Estate’, Rheingau      $75
A clean burst of light, both lacy and powerful, with perfectly balanced sugar and acid, anjou pear & dates & kiwi & more

Spanish Whites

2008 Beldio Txakolina ‘Fermentado en Barrica’, Arabako Txakolina, Basque Country $35
This rare barrel-fermented Hondurrabi Zurri is terrifically, surprisingly refreshing; lemon zest, green apple &a huge grip

2008 Benaza, Godello, Monterrei $28
The Godello varietal is fairly unique to the NW corner of Spain; this shows ripe, salty papaya & Viognier-like aromatics

2010 Burgans, Albariño, Rias Baixas $34
A benchmark Albariño, sexy and hip-shaking, showing tangy grapefruit, ripe melon, and strong peachiness throughout

2009 Can Feixes ‘Selecció’, Penedès $30
A classic still Penedès blend (Parellada/Macabeo/Malvasia/Chard) showing killer, thirst-slaking acidity and kiwi fruit

2009 doFerriero, Albariño, Rias Baixas $48
Dried turkish apricot notes play in a melody of oyster-ey saltiness and lime acidity, with crême fraiche in the distance

2009 Eidos de Padriñán, Albariño, Sanxenxo, Rias Baixas $42
An elegant, personal favorite expression of Albariño, with soft salinity, delicate expression of citrus fruit, and a long finish

1981 R. Lopez de Heredia ‘Viña Tondonia’ Gran Reserva Blanco, Rioja Alta, Spain $160
Stunningly alive: ripe Alhambran oranges in a summer sunset, white birch smoke, a meadow of dewy lavender and sage

2009 Laureano Serres ‘Mendall / L’abeurador’, Macabeo, Penedes $55
Utterly unique wine, naturally made with almost zero sulfur – it’s hazy and Gravner-like, with elegant, engaging textures

2007 Viña Mein, Ribeiro, Spain $32
Sourced near the western Atlantic coast, this dry, Albariño-led field blend is cool and exotic, with cream soda & green tea

Australian and New Zealand Whites

2008 Felton Road, Riesling, Central Otago, New Zealand    $55
Half-dry (9.5% alc.), picked at Spätlese ripeness, this has stunning clarity and weight, with a long, supremely elegant finish

2007 James Millton ‘Riverpoint’ Chardonnay, Gisbourne, New Zealand   $40
James is one of our favorite biodynamic producers in NZ –his clean Chardonnay shows a great balance b/w tropical & citrus

2006 Petaluma, Riesling, Hanlin Hill Vineyard, Clare Valley, Australia     $40
Galloping acidity and low alcohol helps this mid-bodied, taut, steely Riesling stand out; a big marzipan and apricot finish

2008 Pegasus Bay ‘Bel Canto’ Dry Riesling, Waipara Valley, New Zealand $70
A powerful, very dry Riesling (14% alc.), showing lush, delectable flavors of guava, dried apricot, petrol, and honey

2000 Pierro, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia     $65
A sexy, award-winning Chardonnay showing lots of rich yellow apple, Thai spices, lemongrass, and a silky finish

2007 Torbreck, Marsanne/Roussanne, Barossa Valley, Australia    $70
The best blend of its kind from the Southern Hemisphere, showing chamomile tea, quince, and rich hazelnut cream

Whites from Other Countries

2008 Anne-Carole and Conrad Caloz ‘Les Bernunes’ Heida-Paien, Valais, Switzerland $80
Heida-Paien (i.e. Savagnin), the varietal here, shows beautifully; very lean and refreshing, with juniper, watermelon, and mint

2011 Crios, Torrontes, Cafayate, Argentina     $28
A powerfully aromatic, Muscat-like nose leads to a unique blend of kiwi and pear flavors and a crisp, refreshing finish

2010 Ken Forrester, Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa     $34
White peaches and stripes of ripe apricot enliven this delicious Chenin; a soft mid-palate picks up great speed on the finish

2003 Movia ‘Veliko Blanco’, Brda, Slovenia    $75 [Pinot Gris, Ribolla, Sauv. Blanc]
This savory, rich, single-vineyard biodynamic wine is just insanely cool; cardamom, saline, chicory, epoisses, and more!!

2010 Domaine Sigalas, Assyrtiko/Athiri, Santorini, Greece   $30
Tense, high-acid salinity and refreshing mandarin orange flavors mix with bright lemon zest, a touch of olive oil, and thyme

American Chardonnay

2008 Davis Family Vineyards, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma    $60
A fuller-bodied style which nicely balances succulent orchard fruits with a rich, creamy texture – the finish is like a crescendo

2007 Dehlinger, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma   $75
A personal favorite RRV Chard – it carries a lot of heft and weight, and shows dry persimmon, gala apple, and cool toast

2006 DuMol, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma     $105
From one of the most sought-after wineries today, this RRV bottling has it all: ripe yellow apple, nectarine, vanilla, and more

2007 Forman, Chardonnay, Napa Valley    $80
Napa legend and good friend Ric Forman consistently crafts some of Cali’s best Chard – 07 was a great year for him – judicious use of oak perfectly frames classic flavors of fig and gala apple – the finish has great length and lift.

2005 Littorai ‘Charles Heintz Vineyard’ Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast   $130
One of the most elegant and evocative American Chardonnays made to date.  Brisk meyer lemon, olive, a profound finish

2007 Monticello Vineyards, Chardonnay, Napa Valley   $50
Winemaker Chris Corley brings a great deal of thought to his craft – the clean fruit and excellent acidity here is superb

Other American Whites

2006 Brooks, Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon    $30
This wine proves Willamette’s awesome potential for great dry Riesling: strong petrol, keen, tangy green apple, and more

2008 Ca’ del Solo Vineyard, Muscat, Monterey County, California $30
A perfumed, bright, and elegant dry Muscat from the passionate Randall Grahm, showing ripe apricot and kiwi

2008 Elk Cove, Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley, Oregon $35
America’s best Pinot Blanc, this shows charming white peach, notes of zesty lemon, and a light shade of fresh thyme

2007 Hickory Creek, Semi-Dry Riesling, Lake Michigan Shore    $38
The best wine yet from this young estate just across the lake, showing white peach, thyme, early petrol, and a killer finish

2008 K Vintners, ‘Kung Fu Girl’ Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington    $28
A quaffer’s dry Riesling, very juicy and fresh, with pear, a note of tangy grapefruit, and a lean, medium-toned acidity

2000 Tablas Creek, Paso Robles    $55 [Roussanne/Viognier/Marsanne/Grenache Blanc]
A baby Châteauneuf blanc, this is as complex as it gets with ripe, exotic fruits, rich spice, and an extraordinary finish

2009 Hermann J. Wiemer, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York $38
The Wiemer estate produces what we believe is the very best Riesling in America. Don’t miss a taste of this – it’s supremely refreshing, with taut, crisp acidity, flavors of green apple, linden leaf, sencha tea, and much more.

 

Reserve Rosés

2010 Les Chemins de Bassac, vdp de Côtes de Thongue, Southern France $28
A cheerful, refreshing, light-bodied rosé from a great estate, with a deep watermelon hue and terrific acidity

2010 Elk Cove, Pinot Noir Rosé, Willamette Valley, Oregon $30
The bright watermelon-toned color introduces a medium-bodied rosé – one of OR’s finest – w/pomegranate and cherry fruit

2010 Gros Noré, Bandol, Southern France $40
The light color and elegant aroma of this classic Bandol rosé quickly give way to a wine of depth, spice, and precision

2009 Massaya, Rosé, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon $26
A medium-bodied, garnet-colored Cinsault blend of consummate finesse, with spicy raspberry, lavender, and more

2009 Château Simone, Palette (Provence), Southern France   $120
This legendary, hard-to-find wine sets a new standard for what rosé can be; pale crimson color and unforgettable flavor

 

Reserve Reds

France: Côte de Nuits

2007 Bertrand Ambroise, Bourgogne Rouge   $40
A very clean, very restrained Pinot Noir, with lean, earl-grey-tea-esque tannin, solid cherry fruit, and a great finish

2004 Robert Chevillon, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru ‘ Les Bousselots’    $135
This wine takes my breath away – such pure Burgundy is hard to find – earthy mushroom, iron, elevated black fruits

2006 Domaine Collotte, Chambolle-Musigny, Vieilles Vignes    $90
Classic Chambolle, very fine and lean, with filigreed tannin, red fruits (just on this side of tangy), and a very long finish

2008 Claude Dugat, Bourgogne Rouge    $80
Located in Gevrey, Claude consistently crafts superlative wines; this ’08 shows powerful acidity and graceful tannin

2008 Domaine Forey, Bourgogne Rouge $55
From older vines in Vosne-Romanée and NSG, this traditional wine is lean and precise, with delectable, detailed fruit

2004 Philippe & Vincent Lechenaut, Morey St.-Denis    $105
The powerful, elegant Lechenaut style is fairly legendary – their 04 MSD is more of the latter – very refined and savory

2007 Benjamin Leroux, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru ‘Aux Thorey’     $130
From my new favorite NSG producer and a great 1er Cru – succulent fruit, amazingly balanced acidity & an all-night finish

2006 Frederic Magnien, Bourgogne Rouge    $40
A terrific ‘entry-level’ red Burgundy, with classic notes of game, tart cranberry, great acidity and a lingering finish

2006 Domaine St.-Martin, Marsannay ‘Les Grand Vignes’   $50
Lean, pure, delectable Marsannay, showing tart cranberry, a touch of softer blueberry, and clean, refreshing minerality

2002 Philippe Naddef, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles-Vignes    $90
Philippe’s firm, masculine, oaky style is tantalizingly balanced by the perfectly ripe fruit of 2002; one of his best ever

2004 Philippe Pacalet, Gevrey-Chambertin $150
A restless ‘natural’ winemaker, Pacalet makes wines of raw, elegant, savory precision; this 2004 is one of that year’s best Gevreys

2003 Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot, Vosne-Romanée      $140
A seductive Vosne made of ermine and velvet; the essence of ripe  dark cherry, iron, layered tannin, and powerful minerality

France: Côte de Beaune

2002 Domaine Chantal-Lescure, Pommard  ‘Les Vignots’    $75
Darkly expressive, silky Pommard, showing dark violet, tangy plum, juicy fig, and a powerhouse finish of surprising tannin

2008 Bruno Clair, Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru ‘La Dominode’    $135
From a miniscule, sunny site and a great year, this favorite is succulent and powerful for an ’08; plum, cumin, and more

2004 Vincent Dancer, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru ‘Le Grande Borne’     $90
From a concentrated, rich beginning, this slowly becomes leaner and more alive, with mirabelle, limestone and violet

2008 Jean-Luc Dubois, Chorey-les-Beaune, Vieilles-Vignes $50
A new favorite wine from an underappreciated appellation, this is very light bodied and beautifully perfumed – don’t miss!

2005 Florent de Merode, Pommard Premier Cru ‘Clos de la Platière’   $80
I’ve always loved this 1er Cru for its hearty, rustic expression, which has joined with really powerful structure in 2005

1991 Camille Giroud, Beaune ‘Greves’     $105
A superb wine from a warm, underrated year, this shows rosehips and smoky black cherry and a shade of pistachio

2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay   $130
All Dominique Lafon’s wines show a precise elaboration; none more, perhaps, than this exquisite Volnay.  Don’t miss.

2005 Albert Morot, Beaune Premier Cru ‘Bressandes’    $95
Bressandes is a cool and sandy site, giving pinpoint, graceful wines – few estates craft them better than Morot.  A gem

2005 Joseph Voillot, Pommard , Vieilles-Vignes    $85
As robust and generous on the palate as its winemaker, J-P Charlot, this shows intense cherry fruit and spicy tannin

France: Côte Chalonnaise, Mâcon, and Beaujolais

2007 Georges Descombes, Morgon, Beaujolais $42
A perennial favorite Morgon from one of the region’s real masters; the firm tannin of 07 perfectly frames the ripe fruit

2005 Domaine du Clos Salomon, Givry Premier Cru Monopole ‘Clos Salomon’ , Côte Chalonnaise   $60
It’s the finish that stands out here, of steady acidity, which picks up as the ripe cassis & cranberry compote fruit falls away

2009 Damien Coquelet, Chiroubles, Beaujolais $42
One of Beaujolais’ rising stars, Damien crafted an extraordinary wine in 09, all barnyard and earth and deeply ripe fruit

2008 Domaine Guillot-Broux, Gamay, Mâcon-Cruzille    $36
A new all-time favorite Gamay, this lovely, light-bodied wine is incredibly quaffable, with great acid & chalky minerals

2006 Paul Janin ‘Clos du Tremblay’, Moulin-a-Vent, Beaujolais    $48
An iron-rich, mineral-driven Moulin-a-Vent, this is nearly Rhône-esque for its spicy game and fine-boned, tasty tannin

2004 Domaine Joblot, Givry Premier Cru ‘Clos de la Servoisine’, Côte Chalonnaise   $75
Classic Joblot, w/ a firm core of intense cherry and tangy cranberry, a touch of oak and spice and a keen, powerful finish

France: Loire Valley

2008 Domaine le Briseau ‘Patapon’ Pineau d’Aunis, Coteaux-du-Loir $60
A terrific biodynamic Aunis, naturally produced, from north of the Loire river, showing white pepper and blueberry fruit

2005 Lucien Crochet ‘La Croix du Roy’, Sancerre   $50
Amazingly finessed and powerful Sancerre Pinot Noir; lean, tart, and plush by turns, it engages the palate with charm

2008 Clos Delorme, Valencay $32
A rather rare Malbec blend from a tiny zone in the eastern Loire, this is tart and pretty on the whole, with a slight sappy edge

2005 Beatrice and Pascal Lambert ‘Cuvée Danaé’, Chinon    $50
Superb biodynamic Chinon, showing forest-in-springtime/fresh-cut-tobacco aromas, and a generous, satisfying palate

2004 Clos Rougeard ‘Les Poyeux’ Saumur Champigny   $130
One of the top reds in all of France.  Vinified organically from a single plot of 40-60 year old vines, partially fermented in used barrels from Haut-Brion, matured for years in a very cold cellar. The palate is impeccably harmonious.  A benchmark.

2009 Les Sablonettes ‘Les Copines Aussi’ Gamay, Anjou $35
A terrifically pure, medium-bodied, biodynamic Gamay that also happens to be really ‘gulpable’; bing cherry and boysenberry

France: Alsace and the Jura

2006 Domaine Berthet-Bondet ‘Rubis’ [Trousseau/Poulsard/Pinot Noir], Côtes du Jura $45
Very juicy and light-bodied, high in acid and low in tannin, this is showing tangy passionfruit, grapefruit, and cranberry

2007 Philippe Bornard ‘La Chamade’ Ploussard, Arbois Pupillin, Jura $58
We’re thrilled for the opportunity to show this rare wine, all light raspberry tea, lavender, leather, and bright acid

2001 Marcel Deiss, Pinot Noir, Burlenberg, Alsace $70
Talk about relentless – jeez – this rarity will make one very strong: crushed pumice-stone, carrot & ginger & beet & tannin

2007 Michel Gahier, Trousseau, Arbois, Jura $65
A lacy, delicate red wine of consummate charm, showing ripe cranberry, cinnamon, and a finish of lean acidity

2006 Rolly Gassmann, Pinot Noir, Rorschwihr, Alsace $58
Layered, light-bodied Alsatian Pinot of impeccable pedigree; this is charming and utterly drinkable, w/rosewater & saffron

2007 Jacques Puffeney, Trousseau ‘Cuvée les Berangeres’, Arbois, Jura $65
Wild and savage, this high-acid, seductive wine grips the palate and won’t let go – grapefruit and cinnamon dominate

2009 Domaine de la Tournelle, Poulsard, Arbois, Jura $42
One of the lightest-bodied red wines on our whole list, this almost drinks like a rosé; spectacularly pure and drinkable

France: Bordeaux, Left Bank

1996 Château Batailley, Pauillac    $180
A benchmark ‘96, whose bold cassis flavors belie a dazzling restraint; with fresh-turned gravel and slow-smoked meats

1994 Château Cos d’Estournel, St. Estèphe    $170
Simply outstanding – full bodied, rich, with notes of berries, cedar and tobacco that fill the palate, with a long finish

1997 Château Gruaud-Larose,  Grand Cru, St. Julien    $150
Great balance with ripe cherry and cassis fruit, layers of tobacco and spice, with a ripe, supple texture and a long finish

2004 Château du Jaugaret, St.-Julien   $140
This uniquely artisanal Bordeaux was crafted by one man, J-F Fillastre, from a tiny plot that’s been in his family 350 years – aged in used barrels for 30 months in a very cool cellar, it has an overt saltiness on the nose, and a body of amazing cut and precision, with flavors of gravel, cedar, and subtle cherry.  (3,500 bottles made – we received 24.)

2004 Château Moulin-Riche, St. Julien     $80
A favorite every year for its pitch-perfect balance, this shows grilled steak, iodine, cassis, and a trace of Indian spice

1998 Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac      $275
Another great wine, it has big, gripping tannins and dense, concentrated flavors with layers of complexity – a wine to keep

1997 Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac       $295
A perennial powerhouse, this is one of the top 1997’s of Bordeaux – rich, concentrated, complex, and a very long finish

2002 Château Rauzan-Segla, Margaux    $120
Its delicacy and slow evolution make this a classic Margaux: light pomegranate, gravel, a hint of smoke, gorgeous acidity

France: Bordeaux, Right Bank

2003 Château du Champ des Treilles ‘Grand Vin’, Sainte-Foy    $50
The top wine from a favorite, biodynamic, family-run estate in BDX’s far rural east, this is heavenly-pure, with a long finish

2005 Château Côte de Baleau, St.-Emilion Grand Cru   $65
From a small, family-owned estate, this is a leaner, more elegant style of St.-Emilion, showing racy acidity and clean textures

2000 Château Croix de Gay, Pomerol    $115
A dark horse chateau of ‘00 whose palate of rich blue clay is crossed with explosive ripe red fruits and notes of mahogany

2000 Château Gazin, Pomerol     $165
Adjoining Petrus, Gazin is always a fave; this ‘00 may be their best wine ever.  Chewy mocha/almond/clay/plum goodness.

2005 Château Haut-Segottes, St.-Emilion Grand Cru    $80
This small-production St.-Emilion has terrific structure; it’s rather powerful on the palate, with gravelly tannin & keen acid

2007 Château Laronde Desormes, Bordeaux Supèrieur     $35
This 2007 Supèrieur is one of the top wines of its class; impeccably ripe fruits balance against green pepper and solid tannin

Château Peybonhomme les Tours, Cru Bourgeois, Côtes de Blaye $30
One of the most immediately likeable BDX I’ve ever had, this is a classic Blaye; soft blueberry, tangy tannin, gentle spice

2008 Château Recougne, Bordeaux Supèrieur $35
A more serious, tannic, ‘rustic’ Supèrieur, with spicy oak, graphite minerality, gently ripe red fruits, and a generous finish

2010 Château Tire Pé ‘Diem’, Bordeaux $30
Don’t let the affordability here fool you; this spectacularly drinkable, structured young BDX will enliven your night!

France: Northern Rhône

2008 Theirry Allemand ‘Reynard’, Cornas    $160
Theirry’s wines are rare and savage; I’m fortunate to be able to offer a tiny amount of his outstanding ’08 Reynard – don’t miss

1999 Belle Pere et Fils, Hermitage    $94
A classic for its purity and concentration; ultra-ripe raspberry and cassis balanced against bacon, game, and peppery spices

2009 Bernard Burgaud, Côte Rôtie    $120
It’s finally back!  This allocated, small-production, traditional wine will knock your socks off; gamey, dark, unforgettable

2007 Jean-Louis Chave ‘Offerus’, St.-Joseph    $60
Our standing favorite St.-Joseph, w/a very meticulous development: a smoky nose, spicy/peppery palate & a velvet finish

2001 Domaine Courbis ‘Les Eygats’, Cornas    $84
Super-sexy, elegant, developing Cornas with rich, autumnal aromas, musk, framboise and violets, and a soft finish

2008 René-Jean Dard and François Ribo, Crozes-Hermitage   $70
This very unique wine shows a different side of the Crozes appellation – it’s very lean & light-bodied, with a persistent finish

2006 Emmanuel Darnaud ‘Les Trois Chênes’, Crozes-Hermitage    $55
Young, smart Emmy D. is one of our favorite guys in the Rhône: this, his 5th vintage, is packed w/smoke, spice, & bacon fat

2005 J. M. Gerin ‘Champin le Seigneur’, Côte-Rôtie    $120
Deep ruby color; classic aromas of lavender, cumin, and wet red earth; velvety, flattering textures; keen tannic grip

2008 Pierre Gonon, St.-Joseph    $80
A new find for us at Webster’s, this rare, gorgeous wine is delicately spiced and very refined; a connoisseur’s St.-Joseph

1998 Paul Jaboulet ‘La Chapelle’, Hermitage    $175
Ten + years out, this is just starting to blossom, showing licorice, spicy raspberry, iron & granite minerality, and much more

2002 Patrick Jasmin, Côte-Rôtie    $110
In ‘02, Jasmin’s classic profile of tarragon, pink peppercorn, and medium acidity was enriched by a succulent midpalate

2004 Michel et Stephane Ogier ‘L’Âme Soeur’, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes     $80
Stunning old-vines Syrah from a single parcel of terrassed schist across the river from Côte-Rôtie, w/warmth, cut, & drive

2008 Rene Rostaing, Côte Rôtie    $125
A great vintage from this legendary producer, with forward minerality, generous red fruit, and a long, heartwarming finish

France: Southern Rhône

2004 Domaine Font de Michelle ‘Cuvée Etienne Gonnet’, Châteauneuf-du-Pape    $95
Font de Michelle’s top cuvée, this packs a lot of punch: licorice, cassis, and rosemary develop in a very ‘smooth’ total texture

2006 Domaine du Gour de Chaulé ‘Cuvée Tradition’, Gigondas    $55
A classic Gigondas from a favorite vintage, this traditionally made wine is gorgeous for winter; spicy, dark & savory

2007 Domaine la Manarine, Côtes du Rhône   $30
Charming, cheerful Grenache, showing sweet black fruits in a lush texture, medium acidity, and very low tannin

2006 Domaine Monpertuis ‘Tradition’, Châteauneuf-du-Pape   $100
This old-vine, traditional, Grenache-driven blend – only made in special years – is utterly elegant, spicy & savory – don’t miss!

2006 Montirius ‘Le Clos’, Vacqueyras     $60
From a leading biodynamic estate, this graceful, mineral-driven wine is a star of 2006: cassis & spicy white pepper-dust

2009 Domaine le Piaugier ‘La Grange de Piaugier’ Côtes du Rhône   $28
A very graceful Côtes du Rhône, with shades of black pepper, green cardamom, sweet raspberry fruit, and tasty tannin

2008 Château de Saint Cosme ‘Le Claux’, Gigondas    $125
WOW – one of the richest, spiciest, finest Gigondas I’ve ever tasted, from 105 year old vines; layered, savory, and keen

2009 Domaine de Sang des Cailloux ‘Cuvée Azalais’, Vacqueyras    $65
An exotic, spicy, mineral-driven, urgent wine; w/red grapefruit, black cherry, and licorice, it flatters the palate completely

France: ‘the South’

2006 Antoine Arena ‘Carco’ Rouge, Patrimonio, Corsica     $80
This extremely  rare Niellucio (Sangiovese), crafted by Corsica’s most talented winemaker, has an impact on the palate that you’ll never forget:  fine, taut acidity, high-strung persimmon, schisty tannin, notes of ink and salt… don’t miss this gem!

2009 Domaine de l’Ausseil ‘P’tit Piaf’, VdP de Catalans $32
Outstanding ‘natural’ blend (Merlot and Carignane) from a passionate young couple, this is lean, elegant, and deeply satisfying

2006 Domaine Leon Barral ‘Jadis’, Faugères     $55
The spiciest, most flavorful Faugères ever – starts lean and then gains amazing power – black pepper, strong cumin, more

2006 Mas de Daumas Gassac, Vin de Pays de l’Herault    $90
Sensual and thought-provoking, with great speed on the palate: spicy and sappy, mulberry and white sage and oregano

2006 Domaine du Gros’Noré, Bandol      $75
A chewy, meaty Bandol, with lower spice and raspberry, and more carob and ink and raisin and oak and a rich, unctuous end

2006 Château Haut-Monplaisir, Cahors   $34
All Malbec, made for early enjoyment, this is one of our very favorite Cahors: rich, dark, juicy black fruits & soft tannin

2005 Château Haut-Monplaisir ‘Pur Plaisir’, Cahors   $100
This old-vine Malbec hearkens back to the ‘black wine’ of former times: I’ve rarely felt a wine of such weight and evident layering to move with such drive and agility on the palate!   Dark olives, mulberry, baking chocolate, strong tannin, more

2009 Yves Leccia ‘E Croce’, Patrimonio, Corsica $45
A very spicy Grenache blend, this shows black pepper, green olive, myrtle, cumin, and terrific minerality in a full body

2008 Château de la Liquière ‘Amandiers’, Faugères    $28
This tasted like a baby Priorat to me – so satisfying! – integrated layers of licorice, nutmeg, mocha, and toasted pomegranate

2004 Etienne Montés ‘Dominis M’, Vin de Pays de Catalans     $28
A medium-bodied, savory Southern French blend, with wild strawberry, mustard, coriander, and a surprisingly long finish

2003 Château Pradeaux, Bandol    $75
From the leading traditional estate in Bandol, this has phenomenal complexity and an energetic, spicy drive along the palate

2006 Château Simone, Palette (Provence)    $120
Rare and sublime, showing seductive, smoky, Mourvèdre-driven spice, this is one of the truly majestic wines of Provence

1999 Domaine de Trevallon, Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône     $115
This legendary Cabernet/Syrah blend is drinking beautifully just now (8 Nov 10) – cedar, persimmon, tarragon, & more

Italy: Barbaresco and Barolo

Borgogno, Barolo Riserva.  $130     Available vintages:  1999, 1997
A wine of kings, made in enormous old casks to age forever:  dark cherry, toasted pomegranate, fresh chestnut, herbs

2005 Brovia, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto $100
This personal favorite estate crafts very traditional Barolo; 2005 was a remarkable year, defined by precision and length

Ceretto, Bricco Asili ‘Faset’, Barbaresco.  $140     Available vintages: 1999, 1998, 1997
‘Faset’ is an infamous south-facing site shaped like an amphitheater very near the town of Barbaresco and the Tanaro River.  For many years, Ceretto was considered the leading producer from this vineyard – today, however, this is a wine they no longer make.  This ‘mini-vertical’ represents a rare chance to taste a bit of the history of this storied wine and location.

Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo.  $200     Available vintages:  2000, 1995
Bartolo (1926-2005), a Barolo legend, was Piedmont’s greatest ethicist and traditional winemaking advocate; his daughter, Maria Theresa, shares his passion.  To taste a Mascarello is to learn to perceive what Barolo can be.

2004 Giuseppe & figlio Mascarello ‘Monprivato’ Barolo, Castiglione Falletto    $165
From a historic, southwest facing vineyard site of limestone-rich soil, this is only made in superb vintages by Mauro Mascarello, Giuseppe’s great-grandson; lean and lithe, showing pinpoint minerality, soft fruit, tar, and an amazing finish

2006 Montaribaldi, Barbaresco $60
An affordable opportunity to taste a delicious expression of Barbaresco; classic flavors of rosehips, tea, and firm tannin

1999 E. Pira & figli (Chiara Boschis) ‘Via Nuova’,  Barolo     $95
Sassy, beautiful Chiara Boschis is the queen of Piedmont; at the Pira estate, she crafts stately, full-bodied, tannic Barolos     built to age.  This vintage is just coming into its own, with aromas of rosemary, morel mushrooms and baking chocolate.

2003 Francesco Rinaldi & figli ‘Brunate’, Barolo     $140
A beefy, mushroom-driven Barolo from this legendary traditionalist producer, with strong, satisfying tannin

1999 Bruno Rocca ‘Rabajà’, Barbaresco    $90
From a great year and a top vineyard site, this Barbaresco is smokin’ good; rosemary, toasted porcini, relaxed tannin

1998 Sottimano ‘Vigna Brichet’, Barbaresco [in magnum] $175
Brichet is one of Sottimano’s best sites; this shows vivid wild cherry, angular minerality, and a gamey-ness on the end

Italy: Piedmont

2008 Teobaldo Cappellano, Dolcetto d’Alba   $45
From a recently departed legend, this shows generous floral aromatics on the nose, and a palate of sweetly ripe fruits

2007 Giacomo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba     $80
Roberto Conterno, Giacomo’s grandson, is one of the most talented, traditional winemakers in Italy today.  The powerful floral aromas on his ‘07 Barbera introduce an intense, unforgettable palate of keen plum, quince, and sassafrass.

2004 Ferrando ‘Etichetta Bianco’ Carema     $75
An extraordinary vintage for this favorite estate:  gorgeously lean, lithe, and keenly expressive, w/rosepetal, mint, and more

2009 Mauro Molino, Nebbiolo, Langhe $40
The elegance and soft precision of this Nebbiolo are unique for ’09; plush fruit, restrained tannin, and pinpoint acidity

2005 Proprietà Sperino ‘Uvaggio’, Coste della Sesia     $65 [Nebbiolo/Vespolina/Croatina]
Isole e Olena’s Paolo di Marchi is successfully reviving the great, ancient, northern Sesia river valley vineyards with this bottling – it’s just amazing on the palate – such life and vibrancy – rosewater, tumeric, cassis, violets, and more . . .

2009 G. D. Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba    $40
We were really taken with this classic Dolcetto at a recent tasting – tart, bright red fruit, generous acid, and a lovely finish

2008 Vivalda, Barbera d’Asti $30
A lively, light-bodied wine whose bold acid & fresh-picked blackberry flavors make it a delicious quaffer & a great food pair

2009 Cascina Zerbetta, Barbera dei Monferrato $38
This lean, biodynamic Barbera immediately captivates the palate with juicy black cherry, spicy cinnamon, and a great finish

Italy: Tre-Veneto

2007 Abbazia di Novacella, Lagrein, Alto-Adige    $55
An all-time favorite varietal for its relentless edginess and tanginess and velvety exoticism, made by a legendary estate

2003 Abbazia di Novacella ‘Praepositus’ Lagrein, Alto-Adige   $75
My personal ‘Wine of the Year 07’; so seamless and lean and filled with goodness, one regards the glass smiling & astonished

2006 Ca’ la Bionda ‘Vigneti di Ravazzol’, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto     $50
Absolutely stunning, single-vineyard Valpo, perhaps the very best in the zone – don’t miss this wine of unmatched purity

2004 Ca’ la Bionda ‘Vigneti di Ravazzol’, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Veneto    $100
Generous, approachable, drinkable Amarone from a new favorite vineyard, showing fresh toffee, lavender, and licorice

2005 Ricci Curbastro ‘Santella del Gröm’, Curtefranca, Lombardy $45
A fascinating Carmenère-driven Bordeaux-style blend, with very lively acidity, succulent fruit, rustic tannin, and sexy feel

2007 Ermacora, Schioppettino, Colli Orientali del Friuli   $50
Aged in large botti, this is a bit more suave than other Schioppettinos, with relaxed tannin, latent acidity, and great spice

2006 Marco Furlan, Schioppettino, Venezia-Giulia   $32
This intensely flavorful Schioppettino is speedy on the palate, w/a touch more heft & raspberry/inkiness than most others

2006 Monte dall’Ora ‘Saustó’, Ripasso, Valpolicella Classico Superiore    $80
A lush, powerhouse Ripasso, whose classic flavors of black raisin and carob are underlined by a clean, strong acidity

2008 Elena Walch, Merlot, Alto-Adige    $32
One of the best Merlots (if not the best) in all of Italy, showing black cherry, red licorice, rye, woodsy tannin, and strong acid

Italy: Tuscany

2007 Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico    $75
Amazing impact, depth of fruit, and uniquely powerful structure thanks to the relative warmth of ’07; tobacco and dark spice

1994 Castello di Ama ‘Vigneto Bellavista’, Chianti Classico    $165
This blend of Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera, from Ama’s oldest vineyard site, is often regarded as Chianti’s flagship expression; it has heft, focus, and layered tannin – dark cherry, pomegranate, a note of musk, hazelnut, and more

2007 Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico Riserva   $65
Very fresh bing cherry flavors lead into shades of licorice and blackberry toward a supremely balanced finish

1998 Villa di Capezzana ‘Ghiae della Furba’ Carmignano    $110
A Sangiovese with a touch of Cabernet, this is intense and packed with black fruits, spicy oak, wild herbs, and more

2006 Le Corti, Chianti Classico    $35
Lean cranberry fruit, white sage, sassafrass, and rye flavors show in a medium body; the finish is really lengthy and cool

1994 Fattoria di Felsina, Chianti Classico Riserva     $100
Crush herbs de Provence, blackberry, alfalfa, and fresh terra cotta clay in your sweaty palm, imagine a finish of flavorful, dusty, layered tannin, and you’ll have a good sense of where this famous, perfectly aged Chianti is at just now

2005 Isole e Olena ‘Cepparello’, IGT Toscana   $120
This famous, unusual ‘Super Tuscan’, all Sangiovese, is also our favorite – elegant fruit, powerful development, tasty tannin

2006 Massa Vecchia ‘La Querciola’, Maremma $75
This full-bodied (nearly inky!) naturally made Sangiovese/Alicante blend is the most interesting & complex Maremma today

2002 Montepeloso ‘Nardo’, IGT Toscana      $160
The  very best 2002 Toscana.  Nearly perfect wine.  Structured and warm.  Sangio/Cab Sauv.  Myrtle and savory blackberry.

2006 Montevertine ‘Pian del Ciampolo’,  IGT Toscana    $55
From an amazing estate, this Sangiovese blend is Tuscany’s most Burgundian; it’s lithe, light-bodied, and terrifically alive

2004 Giacomo Mori ‘Riserva Castelrotto’, Chianti    $55
A ‘Super Tuscan’ of sorts, this single-vineyard Sangiovese/Merlot, raised in new French oak, is savory and deeply satisfying

2004 Riecine, Chianti Classico Riserva    $70
Pomegranates’ sweet juice and bitter seeds are married here with fresh-planed cedar and smoky cigar-box tannin

2006 Poderi Sanguineto I e II, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano    $68
Tremendously pure, from a great year, this shows a heavenly balance between dark blackberry fruit and savory acidity

1999 Talenti ‘Vigna del Paretaio’, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva     $140
The best Brunello I’ve had in years; soft clove & coffee & rose perfume, sweet licorice-toned fruit, perfectly integrated tannin

Italy: Other Regions

2006 d’Angelo ‘Sacravite’, Aglianico, Basilicata    $35
An unusual, vivid, steel-fermented Aglianico, showing violet aromas, clean volcanic minerality, bright fruit, and crisp acid

2005 Arnaldo Caprai, Montefalco Rosso, Umbria     $50
From Italy’s 2006 Winemaker of the Year (Gambero Rosso),  this Sagrantino-shaded blend is both brooding & superclean

2006 La Crotta di Vegneron, Fumin, Valle d’Aosta    $60
Fumin is a rare varietal from the far north, and develops beautifully here: vanilla, smoke, oregano, musk, sage, black cherry

2006 COS ‘Pithos’, Vittoria, Sicily    $68
A lithe, agile biodynamic wine, fermented in terracotta amphoras, resembling the legendary wines of ancient Carthage

2004 DeFalco, Taurasi, Campania $60
2004 is an unforgettable vintage for Taurasi; do NOT miss a chance to taste this traditionally produced, affordable wine

2005 Heinrich Mayr, Lagrein Riserva, Südtirol    $58
This aromatic, juicy Lagrein brings an immediate smile and cheerful feelings – lithe on the palate, with vivid violet/cherry

2007 Napolini, Sagrantino, Montefalco, Umbria $80
Aged in mostly giant Slavonian oak casks, this delectable, traditional Sagrantino is inky, juicy, spicy and terribly alive

2007 Occhipinti, Frappato, IGT Sicily    $68
One of the most exciting wines I’ve ever tasted, this SINGS on the palate; hearty spice, pomegranate seed & intense acidity

2005 Paolo Bea ‘Rosso de Veo’, Umbria    $120
From young Sagrantino vines, this handcrafted treasure is one of Umbria – and Italy’s – very best: dazzling purity

2002 Fattoria le Terrazze ‘Planet Waves’, Marches     $160
Bob Dylan helped make this 1-time only Montepulciano/Merlot blend; it comes smokin’ down the track w/a dark heat

2004 Tenuta della Terre Nere ‘Guardiola’, Mt. Etna, Sicily    $80
A very serious and delectable Nerello Mascalese, with palpable volcanic soil, powerful tannin and bold cassisey fruits

2004 Terredora diPaolo, Taurasi, Campania    $100
The best vintage I’ve ever had of this legendary Aglianico; volcanic minerality, licorice, black cherry, and a haunting finish

Austrian and German Reds

2007 Friedrich Becker, Pinot Noir ‘B’, Pfalz, Germany    $65
Becker’s wines improve every year!  This galvanizes the palate with dark cherry, sassafrass, and cola; the acidity is very fine

2005 Heger, Pinot Noir, Baden, Germany     $45
One of the leanest, keenest Pinots in Germany, this shows tangy cranberry fruit, bright acid, and a note of macadamia

2005 Weingut Keller ‘Cuvée Felix’ Pinot Noir, Burgel, Rheinhessen, Germany   $150
Germany’s premier Pinot Noir; a special selection from a Grand Cru site, this is energetically complex, balancing rich, beefy gaminess, a pinpoint, filigreed acidity, and unctuous, dark, ripe fruits.  A marvel.

2007 Meinklang, St. Laurent ‘Konkret’, Burgenland, Austria    $80
My personal ‘Wine of the Year 09’; handcrafted by a charming family, this biodynamic wine is aged for 14 months in 9hl concrete eggs, giving the finished wine a texture of singular purity: lithe, agile, low in tannin, supremely polished.

2009 Meinklang, Pinot Noir, Burgenland, Austria    $35
From Central Europe’s leading biodynamic estate, this is supple and expressive, with black cherry and notes of carob

2006 Meyer-Näkel, Pinot Noir, Ahr, Germany    $58
A personal favorite for its rich, exotic Indian spices, mahogany textures, bright red fruit, and long, refreshing finish

2008 Prieler ‘Johanneshöhe’ Blaufränkisch, Burgenland, Austria  $42
A world-class Blaufränkisch, this is dark, rich, and seriously delicious; tamarind spice, smoky mirabelle, and dusty tannin

2007 Umathum, St. Laurent, Burgenland, Austria   $50
Slick and polished, this classy, famous St. Laurent can be likened to a N.Rhône Syrah: iron, rye, baking spice, and more

2007 Wieninger ‘Trilogie’, Wien, Austria $70
Austria’s finest Bordeaux-style blend, with terrific grip and purity; dark cassis, an edge of spearmint, and tasty tannin

Greek Reds

2006 Gaia Estate, Aghiorghitiko, Nemea   $70
For years, the Gaia Estate was Nemea’s global ambassador, and this ’06 shows why, with savory fruit and intense tannin

2006 Karydas, Xinomavro, Naoussa     $50
A gift to the wine lover, this is a perfectly complete Xinomavro: Nebbiolo-like, with rosehips, black tea, and a high-acid finish

2007 Domaine Mercouri, Refosco, Letrinon   $38
This lovely Refosco-led blend is staff fave; cool aromatics introduce a palate redolent of oranges, cinnamon, and pekoe tea

2005 Monemvasia Winery, Aghiorghitiko/Mavroudi, Monemvasia    $48
A fascinating red, whose nearly Ripasso/Zin-like raisiney sweetness is balanced nicely with dry tannin in an elegant structure

2007 Skouras ‘Megas Oenos’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Aghiorghitiko, Nemea    $52
2007 was a year of big wines for our friend George Skouras – this is very powerful, showing grilled meats and dark fruits

1998 Skouras ‘Megas Oenos’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Aghiorghitiko, Nemea $120
This rare library release of Skouras’ groundbreaking top wine is gorgeous just now, with latent power and filigreed tannin

Spanish Reds

2008 Bermejos, Listan Negro, Lanzarote, Canary Islands $65
A uniquely savory, dense red from the barren, hot, windswept eastern volcanic island of Lanzarote, one of the most remote vineyard sites on earth. Fermented in French oak, it carries flavors of baking spice, blackberry, smoky mirabelle, and more

2005 Bodegas Buten ‘Crater’, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Tenerife, Canary Islands   $85
Only 15 barrels of this spectacular biodynamic Listan Negro/Negramoll blend are made each year; very refined, don’t miss

2005 Ferrer Bobet, Priorat    $100
Wow; this really impressed me at a recent tasting for its powerful restraint; it’s huge yet dynamic on the palate; don’t miss

2009 Doniene Gorrondona, Bizkaiko Txakolina, Basque Country     $44
Wildly unique, all Hondurrabi Beltza, from 150 yr. old vines, this is fairly tannic, with black raspberry, clay, chalk, & more

1981 R. Lopez de Heredia ‘Viña Tondonia’  Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta    $215
A wine made for contemplation, this is perfectly integrated on every level: acidity, herb, pomegranate fruit, leather, tannin

2008 Monasterio de Corias ‘Seis Octavos’ Joven, VdT de Cangas, Asturias $38
This rare Mencia blend is one of the coolest Spanish wines we’ve had; tangy & lean, w/cranberry, bing cherry, and great acid

2007 Bodegas Ostatu, Rioja Alavesa    $38
A modern-style Rioja, showing great balance:notes of dill, mint, and oak combine with black cherry cobbler and cinnamon

2007 Alvaro Palacios ‘Les Terrasses’, Old Vines, Priorat    $75
A very stylish wine, with supple tannin and round, ripe fruit, through which Priorat’s schisty volcanic soil softly murmurs

2008 Raúl Pérez ‘Vico’ Mencía, Bierzo $55
A polished, round-shouldered Mencia whose fragrant aromatics immediately give way to spicy caraway and cardamom

2004 Primitivo Quiles ‘Raspay’ Monastrell, Alicante    $48
Killer Monastrell, elaborated traditionally, and only in very special years, this will knock your socks off; spicy, heady, & pure

2009 Viña Sastre, Ribera del Duero $40
My favorite vintage yet from this great estate for its freshness and life on the palate; caraway, wild strawberry, long finish

2007 Terra de Verema ‘Triumvirat’, Priorat   $65
An earthy, funky Priorat that hits the palate in waves, showing something new every time: cocoa nib, chicory, soft tannin…

2004 Valenciso, Reserva, Rioja Alta   $90
This rich, full-bodied Rioja is the only wine made by Valenciso; showing assertive heat and spice, it’s a new ‘modern’ classic

Portuguese Reds

2007 Quinta do Alqueve, Alentejo $28
Nice transition here between a smoky, gamey nose and a fresh, finessed palate of toasted cranberry and black cherry

2007 José Maria da Fonseca, Periquita, Setúbal    $28
It’s nice to offer this old fave here! – charming, easy-going, kinda exotic, it’s a great chance to try a classic Ptgse ‘country wine’

2006 Quinta do Monte d’Oiro ‘Lybra’, Syrah, Lisbon $40
This world-class Syrah (our first ever from Portugal) shows a great balance of baking spice, fresh fig, and cool pepper

2004 Muxagat, Douro $60
From a new favorite Portuguese estate and a terrific year; tarragon, black olive, white pepper, rich textures & dark fruit

2004 Niepoort ‘Redoma’, Douro    $85
Sensational wine, very rare; older-vine Tourigas Roriz and Franca, w/blackberry, bay leaf, olive, sexy tannin & a long finish

2008 Passadouro, Douro $45
From a newer estate that works with old vines and fidelity to tradition, this is world-class! Herbal, dark & smoky

2008 J. Portugal Ramos ‘Loios’, Alentejo    $26
Generous black fruit, a note of lightly spiced chorizo, and a fringe of soft creaminess makes this blend an elegant bargain

Argentine Reds

2009 Achaval Ferrer ‘Quimera’, Mendoza $85
A cult wine from a stellar estate, this concentrated Bordeaux-style Malbec blend with caress your palate well into the night

2009 Susana Balbo, Malbec, Mendoza     $55
A benchmark wine for the varietal, this has dark violets, fresh figs, and wild strawberry, leading to sudden, lengthy tannins

2009 BenMarco, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza     $34
One of Pedro Marchevsky’s best Cabs to date – wonderfully complex and textured, w/ lean cassis, mahogany-smoke & more

2006 Luigi Bosca, Syrah Reserva, Mendoza $40
Packed with luscious black fruit and impeccably aged, this is slick and savory on the palate, with a finish of tasty tannin

2007 Enrique Foster, Malbec Reserva, Mendoza $50
Deep, spicy fruit and generous, flavorful tannin make this one of the most serious and drinkable Malbecs we’ve had

2009 La Posta ‘Pizzella Family Vineyard’ Malbec, Mendoza $32
Generous, soft, very drinkable Malbec, with flavors of fig, date, dark cherry, violet, rosewater, and a juicy finish

2009 Luca ‘Laborde Double Select’, Syrah, Mendoza     $50
Argentina’s top Syrah, and perhaps South America’s: it’s huge, sinewy and rich, with tobacco-smoke, wild raspberry & spice

2007 Bodega Neuquen ‘Malma’ Malbec Reserva, Patagonia    $45
From one of the world’s most remote vineyards, this outstanding Malbec is jazzy and lean, with great acidity & keen fruit

2005 Weinert, Malbec, Mendoza $42
A very traditional, carefully aged Malbec, showing lovely aromatics, a keen, rustic edge, and a soft, satisfying finish

Chilean Reds

2008 Apaltagua ‘Envero’ Carménere, Colchagua      $28
Blended w/15% Cab Sauv., this gutsy, earthy Carménere shows great structure beneath jalapeño pepper and plum

2006 Casa Silva ‘Los Lingues’ Carménere Reserva, Colchagua $40
Lush and rustic by turns, this beautifully aged Carménere nearly defines the varietal; char, chicory, and silky mirabelle

2008 Alvaro Espinoza ‘Antiyal’, Maipo    $90
One of the world’s leading biodynamic wines, this bold, spicy Carmenére/Syrah/Cab blend shows dark herbs and cassis

2008 Montes ‘Alpha’ Syrah, Colchagua    $42
A benchmark Southern Hemisphere Syrah, with bright, plummy fruit, cool peppery spice, and very relaxed tannin

2008 Los Vascos, Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua $34
Classic Chilean Cab, with notes of grilled poblano, smoky ‘char’, dark cassis, a touch of eucalyptus, and more

South African Reds

2009 Badenhorst ‘Secateurs’ Red Blend, Swartland $35
This spectacular southern Rhône-style blend is very traditionally made, showing saffron spice, mocha, graphite, and more

2008 Paul Cluver, Pinot Noir, Elgin $50
Up front, this is a rich & rustic Pinot, w/dark fruit and notes of carob and chicory – the finish surprises with elegance and length

2009 Fairvalley, Pinotage, Coastal Region    $26
A classic Pinotage for its earthiness, char, and grip, complemented by notes of sweeter blue fruit and a shade of licorice

2006 Hamilton Russell, Pinot Noir, Walker Bay    $70
Stunning SA Pinot, like a Pommard with smoky venison notes, yet a terrific drive of cranberry-toned acidity on the end

2006 Meerlust, Merlot, Stellenbosch $45
Totally unique, lean and elegant South African Merlot, showing white pepper, blackberry, a shade of mint and relaxed tannin

2007 Rust en Vrede ‘Estate’, Stellenbosch $80
This remarkable, cult Cab Sauv/Shiraz-led blend is the finest of its kind, w/powerful, iron-toned spice in supple textures

Australian Reds

2005 Bowen Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra    $50
Eucalyptus and mint and chicory-toned, chewy/bitter tannin all over – in other words, a classic, smoky Coonawarra Cab

2007 Brokenwood, Shiraz, Hunter Valley     $70
Outstanding Aussie Shiraz – very spicy, with super-ripe fruit, yet also incredibly clean on the palate, with a suave, long finish

2006 Henschke ‘Henry’s Seven’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre, Barossa    $60
A benchmark ‘GSM’ blend from what many consider to be the finest producer in the Barossa – rich, spicy, and polished

2005 Henschke ‘Lenswood’ Pinot Noir, Australia   $85
If you want to see how Aussie Pinot Noir performs at its best,look no farther than this; it’s extremely generous & well crafted

2009 Mitolo ‘Jester’ Shiraz, McLaren Vale   $38
McLaren’s Shiraz tends toward a leaner and more ‘jazzy’ expression, and few capture that ideal better than Mitolo

1998 Parker Coonawarra Estate ‘Terra Rossa First Growth’, Coonawarra     $120
An Australian classic, whose intense cassis, cocoa, mineral, spice, and mint elements have developed beautifully

2009 Torbreck ‘Juveniles’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro, Barossa     $38
A favorite every year for its tangy flavors of licorice, blackberry, bittersweet chocolate, and a finish of complete acidity

New Zealand Reds

2009 Burn Cottage, Pinot Noir, Central Otago $95
We’re excited for the chance to show the first vintage of this (already famous) biodynamic Pinot, made to be NZ’s best

2006 Huia, Pinot Noir, Marlborough    $60
A big, gutsy, heartwarming and round-shouldered Pinot, showing blackberry, spicy ginger, and notes of licorice

2006 Rippon, Pinon Noir, Wanaka, Central Otago    $105
From Nick Mills, this biodynamic Pinot is one of the world’s best; rich black cherry, bold tannin,  spice, and a pure  tone

2007 Allan Scott, Pinot Noir, Marlborough    $45
Pinpoint Marlborough Pinot, light-bodied, tangy, and spicy – agave and plum skin and a cool note of mint on the very end

2006 Valli, Pinot Noir, Gibbston, Central Otago   $110
Grant Taylor at Valli is seeking to define Otago’s many terroirs; this shows terrific acidity, schisty mineral, and bright plum

Reds from Other Countries

2007 Massaya ‘Classic’, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon     $30
A superb, full-bodied, spicy blend of Cinsault, Cabernet, and Syrah, showing dark green peppercorn and pomegranate

2009 Musar ‘Jeune’, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon   $35
This younger Cinsault/Carignane-led blend from Musar is drinking particularly well just now, with elegant fruit and fine tannin

2000 Château Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon    $80
A blend of Cinsault, Carignane, and Cab Sauvignon, this is Lebanon’s very best wine, and one of the wine world’s legendary treasures.  Satiney and delectable, vinified without chemicals,  showing ripe pomegranate, dark cherry, and, of course, cedar.

2006 Zlatan Otok, Plavaç Mali ‘Barrique’, Island of Hvar, Dalmatian Coast, Croatia      $70
Plavaç Mali, an ancient cousin of Zinfandel, shows wonderfully here: spicy caraway, black cherry, nice oak, and a great finish

2005 Domaine des Ouled Thaleb Benslimane, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zenata, Morocco    $30
Our first Moroccan wine, from a hot zone tempered by cool Atlantic influence, this reminds me of a Cab from the Veneto: it’s agile on the palate, w/classic qualities of just-ripe cassis, tasty bell pepper, and firm tannin alongside notes of toasty oak.

American Pinot Noir

2009 Adelsheim, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon    $50
Lean and expressive, showing bright cranberry, raspberry tea, a note of agave spice, and very soft, relaxed tannin

2009 Bethel Heights, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon    $60
A favorite Oregon Pinot, w/more character than most; richer notes of chicory, mocha, and carob outline softly elegant fruit

2006 Black Star Farms, Pinot Noir, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan   $50
From one of America’s best locations for Pinot, north of Traverse City, and a cooler vintage, this is really delicious and tangy

2008 Elk Cove, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon    $50
Cool balance here between tangy, cranberry-toned, high-acid fruit and a dry, graphite & cedar-box toned fringe of tannin

2004 Eyrie Vineyards, ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley   $105
Supple, earthy, dazzlingly pure Willamette Pinot from one of the valley’s pioneers, this will make you consider OR afresh

2008 Maysara ‘Jamsheed’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $48
A slick and polished biodynamic Pinot from our friends the Momtazi family, this has keen and savory red fruits and great acid

2005 Scherrer, Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, California $65
Artisan Fred Scherrer is garnering a lot of fans with his silky, round, fruit-forward Pinot Noirs; this ’05 is tasting beautiful

2008 Tony Soter ’North Valley’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley   $55
An OR newcomer, Tony’s crafting some lovely medium-bodied wines, full of juicy blackberries and light spice

2008 Ken Wright ‘Guadalupe Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley   $110
A giant, outsized Pinot of layered, palate-coating impact, showing carob,  and milk chocolate, and cumin-dusted raspberry

California / Merlot

2007 Cafaro, Merlot, Napa Valley   $60
Journeyman Joe Cafaro crafted one of America’s best Merlots in 07; both plush and firm, with graphite, plum, and tasty tannin

2004 Duckhorn, Merlot ‘Three Palms’, Napa Valley   $180
A long finish – of sweet cassis and roasted cocoa bean and coconut and caramel – makes this a bit rounder than the ‘02

2002 Duckhorn, Merlot ‘Three Palms’, Napa Valley     $155
Almost unctuous, this big, smoky, currant-filled, earl-grey tea-edged, toasty Three Palms may be their boldest yet

1997 Liparita, Merlot, Napa Valley     $70
Packed with flavor, this is loaded with ripe plums, black cherry, a touch of oak and herbs, with a big, full finish

2007 Makor, Merlot, Bien Nacido Vineyards, Santa Barbara County    $35
Packed with blueberries and black cherry, this punchy Merlot is unique on this list for its sumptous muscularity

1993 Shafer, Merlot, Napa Valley $200
A giant, outsized wine when young, this has settled down nicely, showing savory blue fruits, graphite, and fine tannin

California / Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab-based blends

2004 Benziger, ‘Tribute’, Cabernet blend, Sonoma Mountain $135
Mike Benziger’s biodynamic commitment helped this achieve an amazing balance in a torrid year: a seamless total feel

Caymus ‘Special Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley.    $240 Available Vintages: 1999, 1998, 1995
The Wagner family at Caymus was making wine before Prohibition; this, their ‘Special Selection’, was first produced in 1975, and soon garnered great critical acclaim for its decadent, lush fruit, smooth textures, spicy oak, and elegant structure

2007 Coturri ‘Testa Vineyards’, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino $56
Third-generation, traditionalist winemakers Tony & Phil Coturri made a terrific Cab in ’07; rustic, lush, and deeply complex

Dalla Valle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley.   $225 Available Vintages: 1999, 1998, 1997, 1995
Founded in 1986 on a high plateau in eastern Oakville, Dalla Valle swiftly came to define the ‘classic’ Napa style of the 1990s with this series of iconic bottlings; cedary spice, powerful oak, and layers upon layers of dark, intense fruit

1996 Dominus, ‘Napanook Vineyard’, Cabernet blend, Napa Valley $215
A ripe, complex Dominus with deep black cherry and cassis, earth, spice, charred flavors, and a super long finish

2009 Fischer ‘Unity’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley   $70
Fischer is a favorite, storied estate; this ’09 wowed us with its vivid bing cherry fruits which quickly become brooding and rich

2008 Frank Family Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley   $85
From an award-winning estate, a deeply satisfying Cabernet, with nutmeg, graphite, black raspberry, and a powerful finish

Groth, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley    $250 Available Vintages: 1998, 1996, 1995
Groth’s very special ‘Reserve’ Cab was first made in 1983; until 1999, it was always sourced from a uniquely situated, top-quality parcel – which was replanted in 2000. This small vertical presents a rare chance to taste the last of one of California’s most imitated wines, famous for the purity of its bing cherry fruit, great acidity, and very flavorful tannin

2008 Justin ‘Isosceles’, Cabernet blend, Paso Robles $115
A perennial, award-winning favorite, this ’08 shows concentrated fruits, powerful oak, and a huge, persistent finish

2006 Laurel Glen ‘Counterpoint’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain $65
One of the best vintages we’ve had of this Sonoma classic, showing graphite, earl grey tea, and evenly ripened fruit

1999 Merryvale, ‘Profile’, Cabernet blend, Napa Valley $185
Incredibly profound, with a superb complexity of depth, structure and texture, showing vanilla, tobacco, mocha & cassis

1998 Robert Mondavi, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley    $225
An immensely dark, concentrated cab packed with currants, black cherry, plums, cedar, sweet spices with a long finish

1997 Robert Mondavi, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley    $225
Rated one of its year’s top 10 wines, this is famously big & intense, with a tightly-wound, complex finish of strong tannin

1998 Silver Oak, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley  $180
From a wildly underrated year, this is dark and concentrated, loaded with spicy oak and rich black fruits

1996 Stonestreet ‘Legacy’, Cabernet blend, Alexander Valley, Sonoma    $165
Drinks great now with its ripe, smooth texture and big flavors of currants, cherry, cedar, spices, coffee, and rich finish

California Zinfandel

2006 D-Cubed, Zinfandel, Napa    $55
From Duane Dappen (of Brown Vineyards), this fave is savory, balanced & medium-bodied: fig, brown sugar & more

2009 Easton, Zinfandel, Amador County $34
A strong effort from our friend Bill Easton, this shows ripe black raspberry, spicy oak, and a touch of fresh dates on the end

2008 Doug Nalle, Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma    $50
Bucking trends, Doug consistently crafts lean and elegant Zinfandel; this shapely ‘08 shows pretty cranberry and caraway

2007 Porter Creek, Old Vines Zinfandel, Sonoma   $65
A super-cool biodynamic Zin that just reached Chicago, this is packed with funky, spicy flavors and a sophisticated finish

2004 Stephen Ross, Zinfandel, Dante Dusi Vineyard, Paso Robles     $60
Dante Dusi is one of Paso’s best sites; this heady, lip-smacking Zin shows raisin, toffee, spicy raspberry, and a long end

2006 Joseph Swan ‘Mancini Ranch’ Zinfandel, Russian River Valley    $55
One of the purest, juciest, most quaffable Zins I’ve had, showing terrific stony earthiness, a hazy color, and cool spices

California Syrah

2008 Baker Lane, Syrah, Sonoma Coast    $45
I was really impressed with the energy this wine showed on the palate, w/stimulating white pepper, dried raspberry & more

2007 Peay Vineyards ‘Les Titans’, Syrah, Sonoma Coast $85
From a cool, ocean-influenced vineyard site, this powerhouse from a great family shows impeccable finesse and balance

2008 Qupe, Syrah, Central Coast    $35
Polished, fruit-forward Syrah, showing brassy black raspberry, a shade of spicy cumin, and even-toned acidity on the finish

2005 Edmonds St. John ‘Wylie-Fenaughty’ Syrah, El Dorado County    $50
Lip-smacking, mineral-driven Syrah that will boost your zest for life; pomegranate, raspberry, and white pepper

2006 Tensley, Syrah, Tierra Alta Vineyard, Santa Barbara County    $70
A torrid, arresting Syrah from Joey Tensley, aged on the lees for 1 year: smoky and unctuous by turns, w/a rich, textured feel

2005 Vignalta, Syrah, Monterey   $38
A classic wine from cool Monterey County, this is very lean and nicely balanced – Syrah’s savory character really comes out

Washington State Reds

2004 Betz Family Winery ‘Clos de Betz’, Columbia Valley   $75
A very fine, distinguished BDX blend, with cool gravelly tannin, slow-developing apricot and an herbal wild sage quality

2004 Bookwalter, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley    $75
One of WA’s legendary Cabs for its earthy richness, palate-coating toffee and cassis flavors and keen tannin

2003 Dunham Cellars,  Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla   $90
Eric Dunham crafted an amazing Cab in ‘03:  this beats any Cali Cab by a long shot – awesome acidity & richness

2009 K Vintners ‘Milbrandt’ Syrah, Columbia Valley     $58
One of Charles Smith’s best Syrahs, this is very polished and elegantly spiced; blackberry, cumin, and clean acidity

2008 Owen Roe ‘Ex Umbris’ Syrah, Columbia Valley $50
Owen Roe wines have a very deserved cult following; this ‘Ex Umbris’ is our favorite for its exotic and savory profile

2003 Reininger ‘Helix’, Columbia Valley      $35
A fresh, juicy, approachable BDX blend from the good folks at Reininger, with bing cherry and a hint of graphite mineral

2007 Seven Hills, Merlot, Columbia Valley     $44
Classy, sophisticated Merlot, with wonderful gravelly minerality, bright cherry, and a fine sandalwood/cedar tone

2005 Seven Hills, Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Red Mountain Reserve’, Red Mountain    $90
2005 was a superlative year for Casey McClellan at 7 Hills: this Cab shows an utterly remarkable balance and depth

2005 Seven Hills ‘Pentad’, Walla Walla    $85
A stately blend of BDX varietals, its rich textures remind one of Pomerol, with a bit more volcanic/iron savagery and sting

2004 Steele ‘Shooting Star’ Lemberger, Washington State    $26
Lemberger (aka Blaufränkisch) has found an unusual home in Washington; this is very plummy, juicy, and round

2005 Andrew Will ‘Sorella’, Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley    $125
A cult BDX blend, this is very savory, very ‘left-bank’-like, with meaty, gamey, iodine & currant-driven flavors & a long end

Other American Reds

2002 Barboursville, Nebbiolo ‘Reserve’, Barboursville, Virginia     $85
The best Nebbiolo outside of Piedmont: dark strawberry, tar, roses, mahogany-wood, and wildly tasty tannin at the finish

2007 Coturri, Charbono, Mendocino County, California $55
Tony Coturri is one of CA’s few visionary natural winemakers – this, his light-bodied Charbono, is smokin’ good – a staff fave

2006 Dos Cabezas ‘El Norte’, Cochise County, Arizona $40 [Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah]
A spicy, medium-bodied Rhône style – Arizona’s best – showing grilled meat, dried plum, black pepper, and a touch of mocha

2010 Edmunds St. John ‘Rocks and Gravel’, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California $48
This terrific, naturally made Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre (sourced from Unti!) shows tarragon, thyme, and blackcurrant

2006 Unti, Grenache, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California $60
Outstanding American Grenache; a worthy answer to the south of France, showing juicy licorice-toned fruit and bay leaf

 

Reserve Dessert Wine

1999 Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure ‘Cuvée Abbaye’, Monbazillac, Dordogne, France [500 mL] $44
Sweet fresh almonds, minty honey, light cinnamon, fresh oranges, and a lilac and iris aroma are just a few of the qualities here; cross a Sauternes with a Vin Santo and this would be the delicious result.

2009 Coume del Mas ‘Galateo’ Vin Doux Naturel, Banyuls, Languedoc, France [500 mL] $60
The last word in suavity for Banyuls, this red Grenache-driven blend is utterly silky and satisfying, with dark flavors of toffee, salted caramel, espresso bean, licorice, and much more.

2005 Gunderloch, Eiswein, Rheinhessen, Germany [375 mL] $120
One of Europe’s most sought-after and well-awarded Eisweins, showing excellent acidity in 2005 – it will last forever – under the strong notes of golden raisin and jasmine tea, I detect intriguing flavors of passionfruit and rainbow sherbet…

1995 Knoll, Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Wachau, Austria [500 mL] $125
Amazing and unforgettable; one of the best and most painstaking wines made in Austria, from one of its legendary houses.  The essence of ripe pears, a slight spiciness, notes of petrol and sandalwood, a honeyed sweetness and low viscosity.  A perfectly aged, very rare wine which may not see the city again.

2002 Kracher #5, Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese ‘Zwischen Seen’ Neusiedlersee, Austria [375 mL] $120
2002 was a remarkable year in the Neusiedlersee; Alois Kracher had 58 plots of TBA to choose from! This Scheurebe #5 is my favorite of the bunch – it’s really intense and focused – to taste it is to sense the essence of many things at once; caramel, nutmeg spice, raw acacia honey, passionfruit, and more. A golden marvel from a late master.

1997 Chateau La Tour Blanche, Sauternes Premier Cru, Bordeaux, France [750 mL] $125
A classic Sauternes, intense and complex with expansive flavors.  Being a 750mL bottle, this will require a few friends (very good friends) to polish off.  The ultimate in decadence.

2003 La Tour de la Vieille,  Vin Doux Naturel, Banyuls, Languedoc, France [500 mL] $40
A superb blend of Grenache and Carignane, showing clean cassis, fiery wild marjoram spices, notes of black licorice, straw, and plum, and a dry, yet sweetly savory, finish.

Sommelier – Jeremy Quinn