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2012 German Riesling Tour; Burgundy Ho!

To gear up and whet my palate for the annual ‘Summer of Riesling’, spearheaded by Terroir NYC and involving over 200 restaurants around the country, I traveled to Germany the last week of April and first part of May with …

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Arrived: Wines of Corsica!!

Inspired by the sudden advent of summer weather and my trip to Corsica in January 2011 (cf. blogpost from March 2011), I’ve made some special requests from the west coast warehouse of a favorite wine importer who champions the wines …

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Words about Wine

Recently, a spate of very personal new books have been devoted to wine.  As we move into a new year, it’s time to review some of the most relevant. [Reviewed here, pictured above: Reading between the Wines, Terry Theise, © …

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Voyage to Sicily, Pt.2

(A view of the Tyrrhenian Sea from the medieval city of Erice) … the cannoli was great in Palermo, but couldn’t compare with those of Maria Grammatico’s in Erice (we made a special trip to the town to sample them), …

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Voyage to Sicily, Pt.1

(Rossa Siciliana cows and other local breeds in the Nebrodi mountains) Sicily may be the most dynamic region in Italy right now: winemakers and chefs are rediscovering ways to present the island’s rich heritage with traditionally made wines and seasonal …

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An Autumn Cider Tasting

Autumn is a brilliant time to enjoy cider. I believe it’s more comparable to wine than beer for 2 reasons: yeast and terroir. The best ciders are made with indigenous yeasts; apple variety (there are over 300 different ‘cider apples’) …

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Summer of Riesling 2011

Many thanks to Dr. Vino! On a lazy day in early March 2008, I surfed my favorite wine blogs and learned that Paul Greico’s ‘Terroir’ had finally opened in the East Village… I followed their news all that spring, and …

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‘Bridging the Gulf’: Liguria to ‘Loosiana

The above is my subtitle for a terrific wine & food day in Chicago on Wednesday 18 May; I had the good fortune to share a lunch with storied wine importer Neal Rosenthal (noon @ Coco Pazzo, 300 W. Hubbard) …

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MEROIR (an oyster trip to the Hood)

Touring Spain’s Ribera del Duero in 2005 on a hot sunny day, I looked out over a vineyard of Alejandro Fernández’, and was suddenly struck with a clear unified vision, whereby the vine ceased to be a single living thing, …

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‘Freedom Wines v. Industrial Tyrants!’

(AKA, An afternoon with Louis/Dressner Selections, 23 March 2011 @ Branch27 Restaurant, Chicago) … this is not only how the world will look when we break free from the shackles of corporately cosmeticized ‘sweet spot’ over-sulfured/over-oaked factory ‘wine’, but also …

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A visit to Corsica

My recent two-week wine tour of France began in Corsica on 12 January 2011 – I’d been captivated with the island ever since encountering the wines of Antoine Arena (Patrimonio).  Arriving in Corsica’s capital, Ajaccio, from Paris’ chilly, wet Orly …

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Bottle+Plate

Bottle: 2004 Domaine Font de Michelle ‘Cuvée Etienne Gonnet’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($95 at Webster’s) Plate: braised Mint Creek Farms (IL) grass-fed Lamb Shank, in veal demi-glaze, with mashed potatoes and baby carrots ($18 at Webster’s) Named for Font de Michelle’s founder, …

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José Who? – Exceptional España

Spain is getting more renowned for its wines by the minute.  As the country with the most land under vine in the world (1.2 million hectares!), it is only befitting that the “Madre Patria” pumps out her fair share of …

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Cru Beaujolais: a primer

I remember when the Beaujolais Nouveau release was still a big thing in Chicago.  At the stroke of midnight on the third Thursday in November, bistros like Brasserie Jo and La Creperie, along with other standby spots including the old …

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Old school, just born

Recently, we were graced at Webster’s Wine Bar by one of the most intriguing winemakers in the business. His wines are a direct reflection of not only the terroir of the Etna region in Sicily, but of his intentions & …

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Bottle+Plate

Bottle: Domaine de la Folie 2007 ‘Clos la Folie’, Rully, Côte Châlonnaise, France. (imported by Vintage’59) $55 bottle at Webster’s Plate: Roast Pheasant David Schildknecht loves the Domaine de la Cadette 2007 ‘La Chatelaine’ from Vezelay just as much as …

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‘Minerality’ and biodynamics: pt.1

What is ‘minerality’ in wine? • “‘Layers of tropical pineapple and starfruit then give way to toasted hazelnuts and a touch of smoke, while the depths of the nose reveal a pleasant minerality.’  Chateau Montelena 2007 Chardonnay, Napa Valley” – …

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A visit to Muscadet

After leading the Webster’s staff on a two-leg, 2 1/2 week bicycle tour of Alsace in May and June, visiting the region’s finest producers, and resting solo in Paris for a few days, I took the TGV to Nantes for …

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Txakolí : Got Yodo?

Txakolí, a wine only found in Spain made from grapes only found on the mother land’s soil is one of the wine world’s greatest mysteries.  Many don’t know what the hell it is when they buy it; they’re usually cohersed …

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